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22 October, 2017, 18:15:32 PM

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 11 
 on: 15 October, 2017, 16:28:00 PM 
Started by EuanL200 - Last post by douchecalamondaes
best way is to have someone wobble the wheel with the engine running and you get under and find which bit is moving the most,

 12 
 on: 15 October, 2017, 13:50:13 PM 
Started by EuanL200 - Last post by Nooks
Sorry,. read 2014 as 2004.

Going to clean glasses!

 13 
 on: 15 October, 2017, 11:59:22 AM 
Started by pcat - Last post by pcat
Manual says up to temp between hot range marks, but im unsure if its engine running or not

Normally it is but some Hondas are engine off

Noticed a few bubbles in it when i checked just now

 14 
 on: 14 October, 2017, 23:33:10 PM 
Started by EuanL200 - Last post by EuanL200
My model doesn't have that pal.

Got a steering rack like a car

 15 
 on: 14 October, 2017, 19:43:02 PM 
Started by pcat - Last post by Shottymonster
First thing i do on any car i buy with no poor or no dealer history is grease everything, and replace all the oils and filters.

I check the brake fluid too to see what it looks like, if it looks grotty, that gets changed too.

as for belts, for auxiliary belts unless the look perished I will leave them until the look like they needed changing. For mains, I look at how much life they are expected to have, if they are 75% of their lifespan then i'll change them too.

I tend to spread this over about 6 months, doing the oil, greasing and filters within the first couple of weeks of getting the car, then moving onto coolant belts and brake fluid if needed and then finally belts (unless they look really bad then they get done earlier). Just keeps you from having a massive bill at once.

Just my method though, I would rather know its all done and then I can set up a proper schedule especially if i plan to keep the car for a while.


 16 
 on: 14 October, 2017, 18:14:56 PM 
Started by pcat - Last post by pcat
Had my 2013 truck 6 months / 5k miles so started to think about service items. Its on 52k miles, last seviced at 47k, but the last main dealer service was at 27k. The last 2 were at an unknown indie garage so i cant be sure the full schedule was done

I've changed the ATF because it was black and cooked, but was wondering what other bits would be worth doing? Was thinking diff oil and maybe grease the universal joints? Dont think its due a belt yet?

What would you do for a truck with unknown history?


 17 
 on: 13 October, 2017, 12:09:14 PM 
Started by EuanL200 - Last post by Nooks
Also, Steering Idler, which is the pivot point on the opposite side of the vehicle to the steering box.

 18 
 on: 12 October, 2017, 09:52:27 AM 
Started by EuanL200 - Last post by 123hotchef
try the wobble with the truck on the ground pay attention to ball joints/track rod ends

 19 
 on: 12 October, 2017, 09:10:35 AM 
Started by hinde57 - Last post by hinde57
HI, I am just looking for the correct colour coding for the hazard / flashers from the main steering wiring loom to complete the fitting of a after market HAWK central locking kit, I have a 2005 K74 Trojan and according to the kit instructions the wires in question should be green/yellow and blue/yellow. I have tied in to green/yellow which is the right hand side indicators, but the blue/ yellow does nothing on the right, any help appreciated as this is the last connection for me to make and everything else works great.

Cheers Chris  Grin Cheesy

 20 
 on: 11 October, 2017, 18:29:49 PM 
Started by EuanL200 - Last post by EuanL200
Hi,

I have 2014 L200 warrior, when driving at speeds over 20mph on any road if i hit bump,hole or crease in the road it feels like the front left wheel is wobbling through the steering wheel. I have jacked it up and gave the wheel a good shake but nothing seems to be loose at 6&12 & 3&9 any ideas what else maybe?

Regards Euan

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