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 21 
 on: 21 January, 2020, 20:02:30 PM 
Started by ian2020 - Last post by thewall
As Rod says you will be paying over the top at Mitsi, but they do know these vehicles inside out, don't you know off a reputable garage to get a price, i have just had mine done at a garage i trust and that set me back 2000.

Wherever you take it ask for an update at every critical step of the strip down if they don't like it don't use them, when i had mine done i had a printed sheet from the garage and the head engineers report.

My head was warped and had to be skimmed and was also full of carbon, so valves had to be reseated and a total clean, the price for this was 250.

Good luck Ian keep us informed please we do like to know the out come. Smiley

 22 
 on: 20 January, 2020, 23:12:23 PM 
Started by ian2020 - Last post by rodeast24
Well your going to pay top dollar with mitz, To be honest its all on the stripdown and what they find, don't want to be full of doom and gloom but heads do warp and also become poursus, so testing it is important and it might need a skim, so all could add to the cost and eventual bill, ask them what warrantee is offered on the work done, he will be cadge'y as now one will know the full scope of work till it gets torn down,
There are other garages and engine builder who could do the work,, you need to do some research or maybe ask a few lads on here who have good feedback from work done and you will prob get it done cheaper, whoever does it I would say there only going to give a three month warrantee anyway,

 23 
 on: 20 January, 2020, 14:50:21 PM 
Started by ian2020 - Last post by ian2020
Hello everyone,
 
Thanks for all the previous messages.

It now looks like the HG is failing. I've done the CO test, which changed the liquid to a very pale, almost clear, green colour from the original dark blue. The hoses are pressurised and there are bubbles going into the expansion tank. I've been advised by the Mits mechanic at the dealership that these are enough clues to finger the HG even though there's no other signs and no runningssues apart from the heater taking a bit longer to warm up.

I've (provisionally) booked it in for a head strip down for a this week. Hopefully it will be only the HG, as the symptoms have been minimal - but you never know....

My (final) question is what's next?

Mits have said it's going to take 12 hours to do the HG change minimum, plus parts. They've suggested there will be a small goodwill payment towards the parts, which i doubt will be very much anyway.

So, if this does fix the problem, will it be fixed for good or only for another 37k miles? The service manager was a bit cadgey as to what is actually done during the repair and if it is done, will it be fixed forever??

I would like to get another couple of years out of it after spending a fair bit on this repair.

Cheers,
Ian

 24 
 on: 18 January, 2020, 19:01:58 PM 
Started by elvisjohn - Last post by douchecalamondaes
yea but you also have one on the proportioning valve if you have non abs,  which is where it collects after a while

 25 
 on: 17 January, 2020, 12:57:16 PM 
Started by elvisjohn - Last post by elvisjohn
HI ALL LONG TIME NO CHAT ! nice to see some ole timers still on here , so here we go again , i still got my k74 elvis mobile and replaced a brake pipe on rear , im in process of bleeding , am i correct in seeing only 1 bleed valve on driver side rear that bleeds both rear wheels Huh also i take it there are 2 at front , you guys are usually spot on , any help asap please , thankyou.

 26 
 on: 16 January, 2020, 19:51:15 PM 
Started by Alec69 - Last post by Alec69
hi guys,thinking of changing bulbs to led,does anyone know what type of  led bulbs go in the instrument cluster on a k74 classic ,w reg  yr 2000?
cheers  Alec

 27 
 on: 14 January, 2020, 20:44:23 PM 
Started by STL2 boy - Last post by STL2 boy
Evening,
              Just to say hello. Purchased a K47 this week. ongoing project i know it's needing head work and just trundling trying to get the priming of the fuel system done as i believe it's been left to run dry. The adventure begins  Cool

 28 
 on: 14 January, 2020, 15:24:01 PM 
Started by Supersnail - Last post by Supersnail
Yep the heater does get a little warm after a while,thanks for the advice.I think I will go for both yours and calamadouches tests,I get the feeling the stat may be at the root of the problem. Watch this space.

 29 
 on: 14 January, 2020, 09:33:02 AM 
Started by Supersnail - Last post by rodeast24
If you raise the revs, does the heater get a little bit warm? Take the thermostat out and put it in a cup of boiling water see if it opens, and has the new stat got a pin hole in it, some of the copied stats don't have this hole. for the cost, get a new genuine one, you could pull a pipe off and put a garden hose in there and flush the cooling system and try to back flush it also. If you are not getting anywhere by this time maybe an idea to look at the water pump pull a pipe off it and start it, you should get water flying out, 

 30 
 on: 13 January, 2020, 22:48:37 PM 
Started by Supersnail - Last post by douchecalamondaes
pull pipes off the matrix, run it, should get a nice flow of water from  one pipe,  if so,  remove rad cap and blow into the other pipe,  you should  be able to blow air into the rad, if your having trouble remove stat, you should be able to blow out the stat hole. also blow through the matrix at the same time to see if thats blocked.

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