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 31 
 on: 28 November, 2018, 17:53:02 PM 
Started by Warrior Worrier - Last post by Warrior Worrier
I'm measuring zero resistance between the LH and RH wires at the plug onto the column switch.  Also zero resistance between LH and RH at the hazard switch.  Could that really be an earth fault?  And if so, any likely culprits for dodgy earth?  Many thanks!

 32 
 on: 28 November, 2018, 16:00:45 PM 
Started by howie6012 - Last post by Supersnail
I have rang Kenlow fans a couple of times and they say their biggest fan has the same throughput as the original; so I never changed mine and it does tend to get warm when I am towing the digger. It occurs to me the a belt driven fan goes slower as the revs die off wheras an electric one stays at full output. Changing down early does help but crawling uphill in 2nd doesn't go down well with other motorists! Hope this helps. Pete.

 33 
 on: 28 November, 2018, 15:55:53 PM 
Started by Warrior Worrier - Last post by Supersnail
Could be an earth fault.

 34 
 on: 28 November, 2018, 15:31:36 PM 
Started by Warrior Worrier - Last post by Warrior Worrier
Hi, newbie here - thanks for the add!  I've only owned my truck for a couple of weeks and its developed a weird fault with the indicators.  When I signal right, the RH indicators work fine, but the LH ones also do a brief flash.  Same in reverse when I signal left.  Checked the column switch and no issues there.  Seems to be a short between the LH and RH circuits somewhere.  Nothing obvious near the column switch or at the hazard switch (also tried replacing this, but no luck).  Before I give up and take it to an auto-spark, any ideas/suggestions gratefully received!

 35 
 on: 27 November, 2018, 21:51:58 PM 
Started by howie6012 - Last post by douchecalamondaes
16"***

 36 
 on: 27 November, 2018, 20:33:27 PM 
Started by Dmb74 - Last post by Westfield
Did you ever resolve this? I have the same fault code and symptoms but a new SCV didnít sort for me .

 37 
 on: 27 November, 2018, 17:01:55 PM 
Started by howie6012 - Last post by howie6012
Thanks for the input..
Not sure why I'd stiffen the fan other than for
Heavy towing. Was thinking more removing it
Completely and fitting an electric fan.
I'll look into those wheels. thanks

 38 
 on: 27 November, 2018, 10:42:37 AM 
Started by cwood3 - Last post by Heathen
There is no immobilizer on the pump - you can swap them with no problem. I have a couple of broken pumps with good speed sensors if you want to try one of those before replacing the whole pump, but the pump swap is probably the easiest option - especially if you're not doing the work yourself. Someone who knows what they're doing could probably do the swap in 2-3 hours.

 39 
 on: 27 November, 2018, 00:17:37 AM 
Started by cwood3 - Last post by cwood3
Thanks both, appreciate the really quick replies.  Hadn't  thought of Crank Sensor, is that an easy thing to check?  Battery is quite secure, but that doesn't mean wiring couldn't have got damaged.

 40 
 on: 26 November, 2018, 18:36:56 PM 
Started by MWood - Last post by douchecalamondaes
Hey douche,
I checked out ya Facebook, they look bloody tidy dude!  Cool

What would one of those spring a fellow forum dweller?

Need to bare in mind it's only gonna be to keep her going another year... So maybe just a little advice on how you get started coming of the main rail ends to save me some head scratching with my own Mad Max style build  Grin

I don't have Facebook lol, so couldn't message you...
I'm another one of those backwards ass people that like going for a dump without feeling the need to tell the world Haha!

 

assuming you mean what do they cost>?

I use a channel 60 wide 50 deep 150 tall that cups the rail ends, use the 2 m10x1.25 tapped holes on the front and the side to side hole, then come off that with the bumper which can be whatever you want,

my advice is dont go trying to bend tube unless you have the right bender for the job, the ones that are just an upside down press are terrible and not worth starting with,

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