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 41 
 on: 11 April, 2018, 16:43:17 PM 
Started by Irn Bru Freak - Last post by jasoncambs
I was thinking . If your paying £100 an hour for them to check the loom maybe just worth replacing it and then for the extra 50 its done or eliminated . Just a thought .
That would leave valves and ecu . I doubt itss ecu as its intermittent . And valves can be switched and checked whilts plugged into their diagnostic . 
If they try to switch and check valves they still wont know if loom or valves and will need to check loom anyway . So i would think changing this would be an economical elimination .

 42 
 on: 11 April, 2018, 14:49:25 PM 
Started by Irn Bru Freak - Last post by jasoncambs
8505A175 is the part number for the harness part that breaks .

 43 
 on: 11 April, 2018, 09:41:20 AM 
Started by Irn Bru Freak - Last post by Irn Bru Freak
Beeping out the cables?

I suspect they wont find anything on the hour they have allocated to look at it.  It's dropped off now so will be cold tomorrow when they look at it - it's done it every start up on cold since sat so hoping that continues.

I asked for a quote for a complete wiring loom replacement and the guy said there's various parts and he'd have to check and see - so maybe he needs to do some investigation !

 44 
 on: 11 April, 2018, 05:59:16 AM 
Started by rob h - Last post by Freeway
sounds like clutch slip, you can very often smell the plate burning when the clutch slips. its the same smell as hot brakes when you follow someone thats driving along with the handbrake on.

 45 
 on: 11 April, 2018, 01:07:25 AM 
Started by Irn Bru Freak - Last post by jasoncambs
My break was non visible it was inside the insulation . So beeping out the cables is the only way . And if its intermittent you will struggle to test .  I hope you can find it and get it sorted .

 46 
 on: 10 April, 2018, 20:10:00 PM 
Started by rob h - Last post by rob h
Hi All, I initially had a problem with the truck (57 Warrior) when she would cut out to limp if she had too much revs so was told to change the filter as a first thing job. Now though she , over 2000 rpm, will rev like you have slipped the clutch -- so is the clutch slipping? but she will go up hills and pull away as long as I stay below 2000 rpm. Someone else said it was the fuel pump but I think it is time to ask the experts. So any advice gratefully received by a slow driving L 200 Owner Huh Cheers

 47 
 on: 10 April, 2018, 10:15:52 AM 
Started by Irn Bru Freak - Last post by Irn Bru Freak
I had same . Stuck in 3rd and D flashing . Loom changed and now fine .  Loom is £150 from mitsubishi .
Mitsubishi informed me they had sold 4 of these looms in past month .  There is a white platic box bit attathed to go over gearbox . This is the loom you require if the fault is same . Solenoids and ecu are rarely a problem so i was informed when i took mine to mitzi .

Thanks for this.

I was wondering what the cost would be to just replace the whole gearbox loom and whether the 150 quid covers all of it. 

It's booked into Mitsubishi garage in edinburgh for them to spend an hour plugging into diagnosos machine and checking the wiring so will see what happens.  Even if they find nothing I wonder whether it would be sensible for a replacement wiring look anyway given at times the issue is intermittent.

Just hope it does it on thursday when they are looking at it ! Plan is to drop off night before to make sure it;'s completely cold when they have a look.

 48 
 on: 09 April, 2018, 21:28:55 PM 
Started by Irn Bru Freak - Last post by jasoncambs
I had same . Stuck in 3rd and D flashing . Loom changed and now fine .  Loom is £150 from mitsubishi .
Mitsubishi informed me they had sold 4 of these looms in past month .  There is a white platic box bit attathed to go over gearbox . This is the loom you require if the fault is same . Solenoids and ecu are rarely a problem so i was informed when i took mine to mitzi .

 49 
 on: 09 April, 2018, 13:44:40 PM 
Started by Irn Bru Freak - Last post by Irn Bru Freak
Hi All – looking for some advice on my 2010 L200 barbarian Auto.  There’s a bit of history so I’ll try and be brief and see where this goes.

At the start of 2016 the truck went through a week or so of rough shifting when cold – literally would last for 500 meters and then shifting would be fine.  On start up when warm it was fine.  End of 2016 it returned – sometime in Dec 2016.  It happened intermittently and quickly afterwards followed by the truck sticking in 2nd gear until warm and then it would change fine.  At this point I put it into a Mitsubishi dealer near work in edinburgh – they kept it for a few days, drove it, and plugged it into the fault computer.  For some reason they could not recreate the rough shifting / sticking in second gear.  A few days after getting it back the issue returned, went back to dealer near my work and the issue went away and again they could not find anything wrong.

It then got worse with it now completely stuck in 2nd gear – didn’t change when initially warmed up as before – called a local dealer again near my home in Glasgow and they advised not to bring it in but take it to a local auto gearbox specialist.  I did this (and when driving over after about 5 kilometres this time in 2nd gear it started changing gear), and they initially changed the transmission fluid and after a couple of days driving cold with no return of the issue I got the truck back.  The issue returned after 2 days and it went back to auto gearbox specialist – this time they diagnosed an issue with part of the internal gearbox loom (they measured a constant -30C) and they replaced it.  Again it run fine cold with them and they returned it.  Again after 2-3 days the issue returned by this time it went into limp mode with the Drive D on the dash flashing and it sitting in 3rd gear.  Went back to the auto transmission specialist and they diagnosed a complete failure and it needed a rebuild – this was completed at considerable cost and vehicle returned to me around end of Feb 2017.  The following was found: Forward clutch Teflon seal burst / forward clutch friction plates scorched / forward clutch steel plates scorched & damaged / one way clutch damaged / Metal contamination throughout transmission & torque converter and oil cooler.

Fast forward 10,000 miles to start of 2018 and it starts sticking in 2nd gear again when cold – activate the warranty from the transmission specialist and they take it back into look at it – they state that the gearbox is fine mechanically and spend fair bit of time going through the wiring loom.  They stated they spotted a section they had not looked at previously where the wiring itself is blackened like it’s burnt (under the covering) – they remove and rewire this section.  It’s returned and it’s again running normally.

Fast forward 3 months and over the weekend just there it again starts rough shifting when cold again.  I am really at the end of my tether with this, I want rid of it but giving one last time to get it fixed.  Any suggestions / things I should be doing that I haven’t?

 50 
 on: 08 April, 2018, 11:50:27 AM 
Started by Boysee - Last post by Boysee
I'm located in Oxford.

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