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 on: 07 January, 2020, 16:20:42 PM 
Started by kevleaper - Last post by danby
My tax arrived today for 54 reg double cab and it is Light Goods Vehicle.

 on: 07 January, 2020, 08:29:02 AM 
Started by kevleaper - Last post by kevleaper
Hi From Rutland
Just bought my second K74 L200. Last one threw a rod but missed it so much I've bought another low mileage one with coolant bubbling issues. It was cheap enough I can afford a head repair or maybe even another lump if need be. It appears to be registered as a Commercial whereas my old one was PLG and that's causing the insurance quotes to be a lot higher. Anyone else had the same problem? I might try getting it reclassified with the DVLA, but I fear that's going to be more painful than curing the coolant problems.
Cheers Kev

 on: 04 January, 2020, 23:32:52 PM 
Started by Dmb74 - Last post by douchecalamondaes
injector bleed pipe check oil level, also check your coked your intake was on removal,   

 on: 04 January, 2020, 23:17:17 PM 
Started by Supersnail - Last post by douchecalamondaes
I have got a bit of a bad feeling about my rebuild. I torqued the head down dry, then yesterday read an old post of Douches where he always uses gasket paste. Question is should I take the head back off while its still easy or take the chance?

na generally you dont use gasket paste, particularly if your doing the job "right".  not sure what post you found i must have been on drugs again. Lips sealed

ive used it on a renault which we didnt give a F about and it worked ,  but its not the done thing,    best thing is clean, oil free, dry, very flat surfaces compressed nice and evenly.Wink.

make sure to check coolant regularly and use a nice heavy antifreeze mix,
and have a feel of your viscous make sure its up to job

 on: 04 January, 2020, 17:04:50 PM 
Started by Supersnail - Last post by Supersnail
Finally got the engine together and started it yesterday. Its running like a singer sewing machine, I cant thank this forum enough for the help I have had over the last thirteen years and were not done yet. Special thanks to Douchcalamondaes for your help and advice, if it hadn't been for the rollicking you gave me at the the beginning of this thread I think I may have scrapped the old beast.All I've got to do now is replace rear shockers various suspension bits and a couple of brake lines and it will be like new(sort of) Well chuffed, this is still one of the best motor forums i have come across! Grin Grin Grin

 on: 30 December, 2019, 23:08:06 PM 
Started by ian2020 - Last post by rodeast24
just read the posts again, if wrong coolant has been used , yes blockage,, start by draining all the coolant and back flushing it, get correct coolant and refill with your bonnet up a steep bank 

 on: 30 December, 2019, 22:54:38 PM 
Started by ian2020 - Last post by rodeast24
Have a look on flee bay you might get a cheap one there, as in pressure build up in the hoses you will get some pressure as off expansion, this is y we have the overflow bottle to divert it to the bottle. when things cool down the coolant should return to the radiator, also look at the replacement parts you have fitted did you get them genuine or motor factors our markets are flooded with non genuine parts made in china malasia and god know where else they could be defective from new,, if I got a quid for ever new spark plug iv fitted and its trash id be doing well... Im not saying the head gasket has gone could be a little split in it, but with that milage and year seems unlikely. could even be air in the system going into the heater matrix hence you will loose heat as its full off air, My TD5 has always done this takes 6 miles to warm up and if I just let it tick over the temp gauge goes back down to cold,, My l200 for years runs like a dream, if I put any weight on it towing she starts to overheat,, I would quite happy drive up to Scotland and back with no weight on it and it would be fine,, ill have to put a new rad in it one day.. as I say the sniff test and a pressure test is still not conclusive as is Modern engines, it might even hold pressure when cold and only after getting warm form a small leak in the gasket,, the sniff test will show if you are getting hydro carbons in the coolant and if it is pressurising to much it will change color. Iv done all this on my truck and it all passes.. the coolant color red or blue does make a difference one will attack and corrosion will happen if wrong one is used. The only way to tell if the rad is blocking up or sediment has blocked the bottom half of the rad is take it to radiator shop ask them to flow test it and back flush it,, start with diving the truck up a steep bank and add more coolant hopefully its a air lock in the system and some cars can be a right pain to get the air out,, I would  recommend  head gasket as last resort, take your time and be methodical cos these trucks are like women,,, Nice as pie for ages no trouble  and for no reason at all,, turn into the devil. keep you awake at night and just don't play ball,, good luck with it     

 on: 30 December, 2019, 17:26:36 PM 
Started by ian2020 - Last post by thewall
Hi Ian

You could try and take off the rad cap to release any pressure (there shouldn't be any) then put cap back on and squeeze top hose will be very easy to squeeze, now have a ride out to get upto temp, switch off and check top hose, if it's harder to squeeze then there is pressure build up.

Also there is a school of thought that Mitsi put thin HG on these models and blow easy, your new HG will be thicker, if you do have the HG done you will probably find that at the thinnest part between the cylinders has blown due to the head warping, this will put air into the water jacket and cause pressure in the system so no oil and water mix !.

Try getting some prices before committing to Mitsi

 on: 30 December, 2019, 12:09:52 PM 
Started by Supersnail - Last post by Supersnail
Cant stand facebook so I never use it so will keep posting here.

 on: 30 December, 2019, 11:13:12 AM 
Started by ian2020 - Last post by ian2020
Sniff test not always reliable 100%. thermostat seems likely culprit stuck open, blocked radiator forces coolant back into the expansion tank, or maybe water pump, as stated look at the cheapest options first, Try doing a pressure test on the cooling system. 

Hi Rod, I posted my last message at the same time as yours, so missed your comments..

Can you recommend a pressure tester that I can purchase, as I don't have one. Baring in mind it's only get used once, so cheap as poss...

First thing I did was change the thermostat and rad cap - so can rule that out.

If the rad is blocked, (daft question) is it obvious to a layman like me? I.e is it just a case of taking the top and bottom hose off and sticking some water through it?

I owned a Freelander once with the 1.8 K2 engine. That started overheating and every man and his dog said it was the HG blowing but it turned out to be the thermostat after all!! So I'm just trying to rule everything out before the BIG ONE!


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