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 61 
 on: 14 November, 2019, 10:17:45 AM 
Started by Supersnail - Last post by Supersnail
O.K. I have finally got the beast into the workshop ready to go. at the moment i'm having trouble getting the timing belt pulley off the old head any tips? cheers all.

 62 
 on: 14 November, 2019, 08:56:30 AM 
Started by Pasta - Last post by rodeast24
First of all the 2006 truck, if you have replaced the fuel pressure sensor im pretty sure you have to do a counter reset on the ECU, and a pump learn to calibrate it all. I'm sure someone will come along and explain. The K74 truck could be adjustment of the VVT back it off a bit as per how to on the site somewhere,

 63 
 on: 13 November, 2019, 18:20:52 PM 
Started by Pasta - Last post by Pasta
Dude,
First try not to hyjack other people’s questions as it becomes confusing as these two models have totally different engines which makes it difficult for members with the “knowledge” that we require from them to post it.
Try reposting your question in the relevant section of the forum as you will get your answer quicker there!
Good Luck

 64 
 on: 13 November, 2019, 15:28:28 PM 
Started by Pasta - Last post by DamianPeters
I don't know how to post my own message, but this is similar-ish - I can't help with any offers to assist with this, but I have an issue that my 2004 L200 Warrior drops into limp mode and coughs out black smoke intermittently when travelling less than ten miles. It seems like the diesel isn't being burnt correctly and or a sensor isn't working properly. If the engine is switched off for five minutes it will start and the engine then runs okay. The rev counter will sometimes stop working and the engine doesn't pull as it should, but there isn't any smoke. The issue may have started when I used a diesel fuel additive to clean the carbon deposits in the engine so I have cleaned the EGC valve and this hasn't worked. Does anybody know what my issue could be? Thank you!   

 65 
 on: 13 November, 2019, 12:43:46 PM 
Started by Pasta - Last post by Pasta
Hi All,

My 2006 2.5di auto Pick up keeps going into limp mode after going up hill, I’ve changed the fuel pressure sensor as recommended by you guys in the how do I section, but it’s made no difference, it’s going to have the fault codes read at the weekend when I’m home, but in the meantime so I can source/research possible parts required is there any ideas what could be causing this issue or any tests I can do to pinpoint it to a certain area of the engine,
I’m away with the Vehicle at current at work so trying to get a possible  diagnosis before the long but very slow journey home on Friday.

Many thanks for any suggestions & help appreciated!

 66 
 on: 10 November, 2019, 18:50:24 PM 
Started by marvin - Last post by douchecalamondaes
found the problem
the reason for the build up of diesel in the oil was that the washer's on the return lines on the injectors were leaking !!!
bought some new sealing washers -- sorted !!!
marvin


sorry i didnt get here sooner,  yup on a new shape both the injector seals and the return feed into the valve area and therefore, straight into your oil, so if your oil level is ever rising you have your answer straight away,

unlike many other makes which are open to the air and therefore give "injector chuff" as its known


also that bit about the pump, is for classics,  on a commonrail the pump can be wherever it doesnt make a bit of difference  apart from sensors

 67 
 on: 10 November, 2019, 18:44:32 PM 
Started by Supersnail - Last post by douchecalamondaes
My engine was from Ivor Searle in 2011. Died last month with snapped crank.

Did it have a solid flywheel or a DMF?

Solid flywheel. 4d56 engine.

Thought so! That's what happens when you fit a solid flywheel to an engine designed to have a DMF.

no uk spec k74 ever came with a DMF and the 4d56 crank was designed long before DMF's were even invented..   DMF's are for driver comfort, not to reduce crankshaft stress,

Firstly, dual mass flywheels are fitted to protect the driveline, (clutch, gearbox, propshaft, rear axle) from torsional vibration harmonics - nothing much to do with driver comfort.



Secondly - have a look at this https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=66&t=1632782






well, one guy being told he has a dmf by a garage, that really is proof right there!


i have seen DMF's on pajero's.  on the 2.8, and i assume the 2.5 may have had it in other markets possibly,   but the k74  as sold in the UK,    important point there,  as sold in the uk, not a factory import.   never had a DMF,  i have pulled apart a good number and have never seen a DMF yet.

DMF's remove the small vibrations which cause gearbox chatter, and, to a very small degree,  ease pulling away smoothly,    a manual gearbox is designed to cope with far higher torques from peak engine torque, and shock loading from the drive line.   the engine vibrations are tiny compared to this,  but they do cause gear chatter.

so, in summary, the job of a DMF is driver comfort above all else.  if you want proof look at HGV's.

 68 
 on: 10 November, 2019, 16:48:25 PM 
Started by Mac 36 - Last post by jrdx
Hi, I know it was a while ago but did you end up changing you ECU..? It looks like I may have to do mine and was wondering how big of a job it would be..
cheers

update: I changed the ECU with no problem 

 69 
 on: 09 November, 2019, 21:07:02 PM 
Started by Supersnail - Last post by barnstormer
My engine was from Ivor Searle in 2011. Died last month with snapped crank.

Did it have a solid flywheel or a DMF?

Solid flywheel. 4d56 engine.

Thought so! That's what happens when you fit a solid flywheel to an engine designed to have a DMF.

no uk spec k74 ever came with a DMF and the 4d56 crank was designed long before DMF's were even invented..   DMF's are for driver comfort, not to reduce crankshaft stress,

Firstly, dual mass flywheels are fitted to protect the driveline, (clutch, gearbox, propshaft, rear axle) from torsional vibration harmonics - nothing much to do with driver comfort.



Secondly - have a look at this https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=66&t=1632782




 70 
 on: 09 November, 2019, 01:32:43 AM 
Started by Supersnail - Last post by douchecalamondaes
I take it you don't recommend using a scaffold tube then. I have got a torque wrench but it is only a cheepo would I be better to buy a new quality one.

you really cant go round guessing torque on heads,,   there is a "TPA" for the 4d56, but its pretty damn useless on MLS.


go up to 120nm in as many stages as you like

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