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Author Topic: First Timer! Help with a dead L200 please  (Read 9794 times)
Madles

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« on: 02 June, 2011, 22:30:08 PM »

Hi I have a L200 worrier that will not start.. It might start if it does then it will not rev and after a minute or less it dies like a fuel problem.. Then it will not start again.. Changed for new the twin valves on the rocker cover the boost and the two on the inner wing.. Recently had head rebuild and was running fine then just stopped running.. Have checked and doubled checked timing replaced crank sensor and sensor plate key and front pulley.. Have tried second hand ecu immobiliser and key also tried replacement fuel pump.. Have fuel it appears to be at the right time.. Totally lost any ideas it just will not start.. Help please..

2003 registered
Thank you
Les

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Jabberwocky
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« Reply #1 on: 02 June, 2011, 22:37:18 PM »

try disconnecting the vacum pipe to the intake butterfly, stab in the dark really, see what happens as I think disconnecting it allows the butterfly valve to open freely.
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54 Warrior HGF @75K, new gasket, no EGR, New Turbo, running sweet as a nut now.
Madles

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« Reply #2 on: 02 June, 2011, 22:43:09 PM »

Thank you for taking the time to read and reply yes I have tried that one time it started ran for less than one minute and died as if it had a fuel problem ie cough and splutter but would not rev and would only just tick over.. Les
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geoff stone

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« Reply #3 on: 02 June, 2011, 22:43:31 PM »

check fuel lines right from the tank to the front - if airs getting into the system ...........won`t run. Undecided others will be along soon with more suggestions Wink

good luck

Geoff
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Madles

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« Reply #4 on: 02 June, 2011, 22:52:23 PM »

Hi thanks checked all fuel line bleed it up to a container in engine bay.. Removed injectors and spun over with injectors connected and confirm all are squirting ok..
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Madles

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« Reply #5 on: 02 June, 2011, 23:03:08 PM »

I also towed the motor for about 4 miles would not rev but must have been firing as the water got up to temperature
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aidanb19
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« Reply #6 on: 02 June, 2011, 23:09:29 PM »

Worth checking what readings your getting from the pedal?
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« Reply #7 on: 02 June, 2011, 23:14:06 PM »

might be worth a try but change the fuel filter, if its blocked then the fuel might no be getting up to pressure, sure you might get some out the injectors but not enough to rev it.

Alan
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BANGERSTOX10
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« Reply #8 on: 02 June, 2011, 23:19:18 PM »

Have you got the crank angle sensor connected to the right connector??? As there are 2 very simular very close to each other. One goes onto the fuel pump the other to the crank angle sensor. Do you have any fualt codes? What colour is the smoke? There is a return valve in the outlet of the pump, the bolt that holds the union on. Has this happened since the head work?
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Madles

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« Reply #9 on: 02 June, 2011, 23:19:48 PM »

Have replaced fuel filter  but I am interested in the pedal subjection as I have not yet been there and would like to illuminate.. How doi check the pedal or by pass it.. Thanks
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Madles

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« Reply #10 on: 02 June, 2011, 23:23:01 PM »

Hi yes the head work was done and motor was fine to start with.. Yes the crank sensor was checked and even though they are close the pump one does not easily reach the top one.. Good point but been there..
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Madles

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« Reply #11 on: 02 June, 2011, 23:26:48 PM »

No fault codes and as you turn it over you get grey / White smoke not very much but enough to see that it is turning over and tring to fire but it will not run on it's own.
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BANGERSTOX10
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« Reply #12 on: 02 June, 2011, 23:57:21 PM »

Have you checked the key ways on the camshaft and crankshaft to see if they have broken. Also which timing marks are you using? The outer crankshaft pulley ones might be out have you checked it on the ones which drive the cambelt. Will the vehicle run on another substance e.g. brake cleaner, carb cleaner? When does run does it smell of unburnt diesel?
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Madles

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« Reply #13 on: 03 June, 2011, 00:41:34 AM »

Hi when I replaced the front pulley and wood rough key I used the pulley marks to confirm timing.. Not had it running long enough to smell the smoke etc.. Camshaft hasa pin checked and not broken..
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BANGERSTOX10
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« Reply #14 on: 03 June, 2011, 09:45:38 AM »

Right let start ruling things out ! Is the pump timing marks lined up also ? Put a can of diesel under the bonnet and put your feed and return from the injection pump into the can then try an get it to run. If it runs OK then it is you feed from the fuel tank. What diesel are you using ? Have you filled up recently ? Was it with diesel or have you put petrol in by mistake ? Is the EGR valve open when it is running ?
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Lez
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« Reply #15 on: 03 June, 2011, 09:54:24 AM »

Completely with Bangerstox on this..... always 'can' it first, proves where the fault lies by dividing the fuel system down. we always do this with any fuel / running  problem. If you have a test meter, check all the wires to the padal, with it conneted, you should have two that change voltage when the pedal goes from 'off' to 'full throttle' voltage will go from about 1v to around 4v, there should be two wires ( i think) that are at 12v ish and two ground wires ( possibly 3) not found out yet what the other 1 does. Check with ignition on, engine off.
Lez.
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treeboa
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« Reply #16 on: 03 June, 2011, 10:25:56 AM »

Have tried second hand ecu immobiliser and key

you need the key, pickup ring and the ecu for this to work

get yourself a small tank of fuel right over the pump

also you mention changing the pump, fuel shut off valve fault ?
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try seven up, snow white recomends it Wink
Black 2005 Warrior, now 105.500, thats over 50k on 100% veg
latest mods an apollo filter and a pop up top, nice new stainless de cat pipe, replaced btm pully @92k, egr blanked
Madles

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« Reply #17 on: 05 June, 2011, 20:28:54 PM »

Hi guys have tried the ecu, key, immobiliser, transponder etc.. No different.. Palced fuel in a container under bonnet.. No different.. Now I have a bit of an update.. I have brought another check gauge (digital) and double checked the static timing set to 7* after TDC with 1mm lift I had the injectors out and set timing.. Put pipes back on and bleed used a very small amount of easy start hay presto she started run and reved up perfect.. Shut it down as no radiator etc left ten minuets started on key with no assistance.. Left further 10 minutes started again with no assistance so I rebuilt engine went to start so I could fill with water would not start and from this point on it will not start.. Towed it jumped it brought new battery disconnected the alternator tried easy start still will not start.. Striped back fuel system rechecked the static timing (ok) but it will not start......... Help I feel a skip coming on...
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Lez
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« Reply #18 on: 05 June, 2011, 20:45:50 PM »

Les, where abouts are you mate?
Lez.
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Jabberwocky
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« Reply #19 on: 05 June, 2011, 21:02:13 PM »

I have brought another check gauge (digital) and double checked the static timing set to 7* after TDC with 1mm lift I had the injectors out and set timing..

Not sure if it make a difference but the tech manual states 9 with 1mm.
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Lez
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« Reply #20 on: 05 June, 2011, 21:24:50 PM »

Les, also been pondering this for a while, are you getting good squirt ( injection), turn an injector and try it to see, with all the things you have tried, have you been through ALL the fuses, just in case you have popped one and not noticed it.
Lez.
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Madles

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« Reply #21 on: 05 June, 2011, 22:59:31 PM »

Few answers: I am in Rochester Kent.. Advise from diesel centre is that it will run better at 7* with 1 mm lift.. But ecu should correct any very small difference.. I have had all linjectors connected out of the engine cranked it over and they have all squirted seamingley ok.. Thanks to all for your help I feel like I am going out my mind with this one..
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BANGERSTOX10
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« Reply #22 on: 06 June, 2011, 22:59:39 PM »

So it does not even try to start on easy start Huh Huh Have you checked the tappet clearences / lash adjusters ? It should run on the easy start or brake cleaner providing the valve timing is correct. Also there is a fuse in the fuse box by the battery which if blown will not let the engine start. Also in the passenger footwell there will be a link plug for live feeds and earth feeds. It will have a group of red wires & black wires going into this check this is not corroded. Have you tried rebleeding the diesel system? I am in canterbury just down the road from you.
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alzheimers
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« Reply #23 on: 06 June, 2011, 23:09:13 PM »

Only problem with using easy start is that it strips the bores and cause major damage if use alot Sad
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treeboa
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« Reply #24 on: 07 June, 2011, 08:50:06 AM »

if it wont fire up on easy start then its not electrical or fuel related, using that stuff you have bypassed the electrics and fuel system, timings drastically out or it has no compression
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try seven up, snow white recomends it Wink
Black 2005 Warrior, now 105.500, thats over 50k on 100% veg
latest mods an apollo filter and a pop up top, nice new stainless de cat pipe, replaced btm pully @92k, egr blanked
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« Reply #25 on: 07 June, 2011, 19:28:37 PM »

Les, I am now of the same opinion as Treebo, Recheck your valve clearances, and even drop them back to  20 thou for checking purposes. Go back to the beginning and recheck everything, not just 'I know that's OK' recheck and check again, there has been many a time when I have done something daft or missed something and was convinced it was ok.
Lez.
If you really get stuck with this and cannot get it going, my workshop is in Lewisham, SE London, if you can get it to me I will have a look at it.
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Madles

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« Reply #26 on: 10 June, 2011, 01:56:29 AM »

Thank you all!

I have checked striped rebuilt it does run nice on clutch brake cleaner.... And as fuel and I believe at the right time... I have added positive power to shut off solenoid checked fuel at injectors but will not start on diesel.. Compression test was 300 on each cylinder...

I am planning to pull the head off but don't really no where to go from here...
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jimmy
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« Reply #27 on: 10 June, 2011, 09:31:57 AM »

@Madles wat did you do between it going from not starting on easy start and it running well on brake cleaner i have a gut feeling that there is more than one thing wrong with your engine.


   Ian
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« Reply #28 on: 10 June, 2011, 10:01:43 AM »

Right the engine valve timing is right. How have you checked the pump timing Huh Huh Have you put a dial guage in the back of the pump and set it up correctly? Taking the head off will not give you any reason for non start. It sound more like a Fueling issue or the timing of the injector pump. When it tries to fire up is it in a cloud of smoke and then dies off again? If so this is because it has filled itself up with diesel in the bores. Have you checked the pick up ring on the crank because this will be for the timing adjustment on ECU. Have you checked your fuses on the fuse box under the bonnet next to the battery on the inner wing? Because there is one in there which is specific for the ECU. If this is blown your vehicle will not start for all the tea in china !!
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BANGERSTOX10
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« Reply #29 on: 10 June, 2011, 12:39:02 PM »

Just a thought has the vehicle got an alarm fitted or has it had an alarm fitted ?
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stuartshaw
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« Reply #30 on: 10 June, 2011, 19:10:39 PM »

This sounds electrical...have you checked the ground connections around the engine?
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« Reply #31 on: 14 August, 2011, 12:04:49 PM »

I had exact same problem on td4 a few weeks ago it really did my head in, go back to the simple road as it sounds to me you have done so much now its fry-ed you head. The td4 was not starting and white gray smoke,it would start after cranking for half hour sometimes and if started within a few minits it was fine,After 10minits it would not start again.. in the end after a lot of hours put in to it, The pump was out a fraction, My Td5 had  a similar problem one time decided not to start and after days off checking it over someone advised me to change filter, I was not convinced at all but did change it and to my amazement it started first time and no problems since. It a case of sometimes we get to thecnical and get mental block trying to think to hard on it. Walk away tea and a smoke go back to basic
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