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Author Topic: Vac solenoids and flashing green light!  (Read 13065 times)
gazmoore
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« on: 30 January, 2015, 21:25:32 PM »

Hi All, can anybody post a photo or diagram of the two vac solenoids on the drivers side inner wing, showing the connections? Having a problem with the old flashing green light again. Found it to be the solenoid nearest the front of the car which was not working. Took them out and got the bad one working fine again. After replacing them, switched the engine on and great, light went out. Shut off and then started up again a few mins later, and flashing started again. Took solenoids out again, checked both working fine. Looked at the actuator on the front diff and checked it with a vac pump, it moves OK when vac applied to the tube on the shaft side of the diaphragm end. With the engine running and in 2wd neutral, there is vacuum to the tube to the outer end of the diaphragm, but no vac to the tube nearest the actuator shaft. This seems to be the wrong way round to me, as vac to this inner tube causes the actuator to move and disengage the diff. I have looked at the solenoids and tube connections, and all looked ok.,as the tubes only really fit in one way, -- but have I got something the wrong way round??? 4wd works OK, just light flashes continually in 2wd.  Help appreciated as this is driving me mad!
Thanks
Gaz
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Silver (wanted a black one!) 2006 Warrior classic 60K miles, EGR removed, de-cat, reversing camera, Proppa canopy
123hotchef
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« Reply #1 on: 30 January, 2015, 21:27:45 PM »

sound like a vac leak is the accumelator ok and holding up
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gazmoore
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« Reply #2 on: 30 January, 2015, 22:29:49 PM »

Don't,t think it's a leak, if I swap the tubes round, the actuator moves and the light goes out but then I can't get 4wd, light just flashes when I put it into 4wd. I tried swapping the electrical connections on the top of the solenoids, as I wasn't sure if I had put them back on the correct solenoids, but it doesn't make any difference. Anybody know how to identify which plug should go onto which solenoid?
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Silver (wanted a black one!) 2006 Warrior classic 60K miles, EGR removed, de-cat, reversing camera, Proppa canopy
123hotchef
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« Reply #3 on: 30 January, 2015, 23:18:21 PM »

aint they colour coded?

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Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

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gazmoore
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« Reply #4 on: 31 January, 2015, 10:02:09 AM »

No, the electrical connections are the same on each solenoid, there is nothing to distinguish them, unless you take very careful note of the wiring colors before you remove them, or mark them in some way, which I stupidly didn't. Seems to me like the vac is there OK, but is not being applied in the right place, as if the electrical switching of the solenoids he gone wrong
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Silver (wanted a black one!) 2006 Warrior classic 60K miles, EGR removed, de-cat, reversing camera, Proppa canopy
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« Reply #5 on: 31 January, 2015, 10:29:28 AM »

ill take a look at mine 4 ya later if need me too mate

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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
gazmoore
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« Reply #6 on: 31 January, 2015, 15:22:43 PM »

Hi, thanks that would help a lot. As I say, I think I am getting vac OK, but not in the correct sequence. Thanks,
Gaz
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Silver (wanted a black one!) 2006 Warrior classic 60K miles, EGR removed, de-cat, reversing camera, Proppa canopy
gazmoore
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« Reply #7 on: 31 January, 2015, 16:25:39 PM »

Just been out messing. I think that the solenoids should be one normally closed, and the other normally open. The electrical connections are both at 0v when in 2wd,and 14v when the 4wd lever is put into 4wd. This should then make the vac swap round as the solenoids switch, one will close when activated, the other will open. I am getting vac to the same one all the time, the front one with the blue pipe, which seems to be the one that locks the diff. Both solenoids seem to be working though, clicking when 12v is applied to the terminals. I will take them out tomorrow and have a good test on the bench.
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Silver (wanted a black one!) 2006 Warrior classic 60K miles, EGR removed, de-cat, reversing camera, Proppa canopy
gazmoore
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« Reply #8 on: 01 February, 2015, 14:56:49 PM »

Hi, my theories are completely wrong. Both solenoids are exactly the same, the difference in which one has vac when activated is due to how the pipes are connected to the different ports.  The solenoids are both working correctly on the bench, I think I have an electrical problem as I don't think the solenoids are being activated when the transfer lever is put into 4wd. Testing the connections with my meter, sometimes there is 14v to one or both, sometimes 2v and sometimes 0v. Is there an ecu or something controlling this freewheeling clutch system? I really need some pics or something of a working system to make sure you that I have everything connected the right way round before I start trying to trace the fault. I have checked the accumulator for leaks with a vac pump,and all seems OK, so I think that vac leak is not the problem.HELP PLEASE!
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Silver (wanted a black one!) 2006 Warrior classic 60K miles, EGR removed, de-cat, reversing camera, Proppa canopy
douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #9 on: 01 February, 2015, 15:50:24 PM »

sorry i havent been reading this thread enough. iv had to do this recently, basically, there is a single feed from the 4wd ECU to both solenoids, which are identical, which switches fron 0 to 12 v when switched into 4wd on the lever, test this with mlti meter, if this works its  not your ecu, check the covers on the two un used outlets on the solenoids are not leaking, then if all this works take coloued pipes off of solenoids, have someone switch the lever and have your fingers over both outlets, vac should swap from blue to yellow and visa versa.
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gazmoore
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« Reply #10 on: 01 February, 2015, 18:25:00 PM »

Hi, I have tested voltage at connections with a multimeter,kind as I said it is not consistent.sometimes 14v, or 2v or 0v when lever put into 4wd. The vac doesn't swap from one solenoid to the other, it is always from the front one, the blue pipe, the other one, yellow, does not have any vacuum at it's outlet. There is vac to the bottom of the rear, yellow, solenoid, and vac to the top of the front, blue one, so to me it seems that the solenoids are not being switched. Both of them actually work fine, I have tested them on the bench with a 12v battery. It appears then that the solenoids are not getting the switching voltage. Faulty ,ecu?
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Silver (wanted a black one!) 2006 Warrior classic 60K miles, EGR removed, de-cat, reversing camera, Proppa canopy
gazmoore
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« Reply #11 on: 01 February, 2015, 19:47:05 PM »

Should the 12v be present at the connectors when in 2wd, or when in 4wd?
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Silver (wanted a black one!) 2006 Warrior classic 60K miles, EGR removed, de-cat, reversing camera, Proppa canopy
douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #12 on: 01 February, 2015, 20:08:01 PM »

from memory voltage in 4WD, looks like you will need to look at the ECU or wiring, just a thought try switching the voltage feeds to the other solenoids, therefore if the symtoms change accordingly the solenoids are okay and the feed is bad and visa versa
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03 4work, Cummins 6BTA 5.9L engine, 40" round things, and all the accompanying hassle involved.
 
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley
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gazmoore
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« Reply #13 on: 01 February, 2015, 21:37:02 PM »

I've swapped the connectors over, (in fact I don't know which was originally where) and it doesn't make any difference, still just vac out of the blue solenoid,nothing from the yellow
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douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #14 on: 01 February, 2015, 22:19:52 PM »

I've swapped the connectors over, (in fact I don't know which was originally where) and it doesn't make any difference, still just vac out of the blue solenoid,nothing from the yellow

that doesnt make sense then. if you are sure your bench testing was right, then you have to describe exactly what each feed does in 2wd and in 4, they should be identical, they are one split into after the 4WD ecu I believe so it would be very odd for them not to register the same
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03 4work, Cummins 6BTA 5.9L engine, 40" round things, and all the accompanying hassle involved.
 
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley
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gazmoore
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« Reply #15 on: 02 February, 2015, 08:53:49 AM »

It's  baffling me too, I've been struggling withthis for days on end. Started out with a simple stuck solenoid causing the green light to flash for a long time, then go out eventually in 2wd. Had this before, checked solenoids, sure enough front (yellow one) sieized up. Took it out , freed it off, working OK, put it back fired up, light goes out, job done. Fired up again, light flashing constantly, and then the saga begins. I'll try to check the voltages tonight after work. I am pretty sure that I have all the piping in the correct place, as I have looked at various pictures on the web ( no, not those sort of pictures!). Thanks for the help
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gazmoore
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« Reply #16 on: 02 February, 2015, 21:19:04 PM »

Just been out to check voltages. With engine running, 2wd selected, both connectors unplugged, 0v at both. With engine running, 4wd selected, both connectors unplugged 14v at both. If one or other of the connectors is plugged in to a solenoid, there is then 0v at the disconnected one. This is the same whichever connector is plugged/unplugged. As I say, there is vac to the inlets of both solenoids, but only vac to the outlet of the front, blue, one. The solenoids work perfectly when bench tested. I suppose if I made up a couple of connectors and connected the solenoids up to a seperate 12v supply, then that would tell me if the vac system, piping etc was OK and if the switching was the problem.
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Silver (wanted a black one!) 2006 Warrior classic 60K miles, EGR removed, de-cat, reversing camera, Proppa canopy
douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #17 on: 02 February, 2015, 21:41:42 PM »

i never tested mine with only one connected but with both disconnected they are working as they should, all i can think is possibly you have a short circuit somewhere, u will have to get another truck (or another member) to check theirs and tell you if it behaves the same
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03 4work, Cummins 6BTA 5.9L engine, 40" round things, and all the accompanying hassle involved.
 
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley
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123hotchef
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« Reply #18 on: 03 February, 2015, 21:01:37 PM »

the trouble shooting for them is in the worshop manueal
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
gazmoore
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« Reply #19 on: 03 February, 2015, 21:08:45 PM »

Problem is electrical. Tested by connecting separate 12v supply to solenoids, it seems they need 12v in 2wd to give vac to yellow tube to disengage front diff, then no volts when lever put in 4wd, which swaps vac to blue tube to pull actuator back in to engage the diff. All works fine from separate 12v supply. Now need to find what supplies the required voltage. Is there a fuse anywhere? I think that there is a switch on the transfer box that might be the culprit, also, does this system have it's own ecu? If anybody knows the location of these component, please let me know. Thanks
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Silver (wanted a black one!) 2006 Warrior classic 60K miles, EGR removed, de-cat, reversing camera, Proppa canopy
123hotchef
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« Reply #20 on: 03 February, 2015, 21:10:42 PM »

4wd ecu in footwell mate
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
123hotchef
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« Reply #21 on: 03 February, 2015, 21:11:30 PM »

below the main ecu left footwell
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
hugmeister
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« Reply #22 on: 11 July, 2019, 10:22:15 AM »

I have exactly this with the same voltages with one unplugged and same vacuum etc.

on mine however I am getting the wheel lock light stuck on (or stuck off if I reverse the pipes)

the solenoids dont seem to be actually switching (replaced with new and replaced all vac lines)
« Last Edit: 11 July, 2019, 10:26:48 AM by hugmeister » Logged

2001 Triton 3.0 V6 Auto

All the gear.. No idea..
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