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Author Topic: K74 Replacement rear bumper project!  (Read 13839 times)
MWood
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« on: 18 November, 2015, 03:26:44 AM »

Hi all,
I'm back Grin Nothing has dropped off the old gal for a while now, and sods law just as i was thinking about it the rear bumper/towbar collapsed on me last Wednesday  Angry

So i was reversing up the track with a trailer load of type 1 and something went 'twang, crunch'...
Thought i'd just hit a big stone and snapped a mud guard off the trailer! So i hops out and checks, nope not that,  looks round the truck, Hmm, something looks a bit strange with the towbar! The braces had rusted through and reversing had folded the hitch forward under the back end, splitting the wafer thin tube in several places and generally B******ing it beyond use!
Then i realised i needed the trailer first thing on Sat morning to go up to the auctions to pick up a small tractor! So a mad scramble ensued to get a working towbar made in time!

For those that i spoke to a few months back, making a new towbar was on my list of things to do as it was looking a little dicey when i bought the truck, but as usual it went on the back burner as parts have been dropping off the farm machinery which needed welding back up or rebuilding!

Incidentally, before someone says ''jeeze!! did you make that strong enough?''
Due to the rush to get it fixed, most of the steel  Undecided ... ok, All the steel was leftovers from fixing considerably bigger machinery than a 4x4


So without further ado, onto the pics and how to:

Knackered towbar:
 

 

Hard to see just how stoved in it was, but the only thing holding it together at this point was the step plate on the top which was surprisingly rust free!


New bumper cutting list:
x2 - washing up liquid bottles
x1 - kitchen towel tube
x1 roll of double sided tape
various poster paints
Huh No wait, that was last nights Blue Peter...

Try again  Grin
x2 - 1700mm lengths of 70 x 70 x 5mm box  (34.35Kg)
x2 - 500mm lengths of 150 x 12mm flat bar  (14.13Kg)
x1 - 350mm Length of 150 x 12mm flat bar  (0.4Kg)
x2 - 1000mm lengths of 30 x 30 x 3mm box  (5.1Kg)
x1 - half Litre of fresh engine oil (i think i used hydraulic oil as it was to hand!)
Approx 6Kg of various welding rods and scraps of sheet steel for capping off the box with.
Salvaged mounting plates from the original bumper (5kg ish).

Total ~64Kg (no wonder it too 3 of us to get it back on the truck lmao)


1. Weld the two 1700mm lengths of box section together like so.


2. Cut chamfers into each end of what will be the bottom of the bumper, i cut mine about 120mm in and 65mm high.


3. Using 6mm sheet steel scraps cap off just one end of the bumper for now, taking care not to have any pin-holes in your welds!


4. Up end the bar with the capped end down and pour in 250ml of oil into each length of box. This will coat the inside of the box and stop any residual moisture from rotting the box from the inside Wink i have been doing this for some years now and have found it to be very effective!

5. Using more scraps of sheet, weld up the other end of the boxes.
A good tip here is have a helper heat the length of the box with a blowtorch as you make your final weld, this makes the air in the box expand and stops the weld from blowing out as you're trying to seal the end. When the box cools it will also create a slight vacuum which also helps with corrosion resistance.

6. One finished bumper after a quick lick of red oxide.


7. Put the bumper on one side for now and move onto the mounts.

8. Cut back the original mounting plates and weld on the 500mm lengths of 150mm bar.


9. Using 2 bolts, bolt the modified mounts back onto the chasis.


10. Get a friend to help you stand the bumper onto the modified mounts, eye everything up check your spacings and mark up the bumper mounts to notch them out.


11. Put the bumper back on, make adjustments until happy, then mark up the bumper where the mounts will be welded.


12. Weld the bumper to the mounts, I took the mounts off the truck and welded it up on the bench for speed, however with doing it that way as i welded one of the mounts it shifted by a couple of mm hence why it will look a little out on later pics!
If you weld up with it in place on the truck DO NOT weld with the battery connected, its also good practice to disconnect the starter/alternator as well!

13. Take the 350 x 150mm plate and centre on your bumper, weld up, cut and weld in the braces.
I would suggest using angle iron for the braces rather than box (but i didn't have any!), because cutting double angles by hand is very awkward and time consuming Angry


14. Since it took the best part of a day to get the old bumper un-bolted, by this point it was 11pm on Fri so i bolted it all up and slapped the tow hitch on ready for the following morning!

2mm = looking well out! had it have not been such a hurry i'd have either spotted the movement before welding or, would have noticed sooner and could have corrected! this has cost me a couple of hours extra work this weekend!
Always double, and triple check measurements especially when welding something you cant clamp!




I had a day off today so i figured i'd get the bumper back off to get it finished off properly, and to get it lined up re-aligned after one of the mounts moved during welding on Fri night!

15. recovery points... Not needed but always handy to have especially on a farm! they are made of 2 pieces of 16mm plate, one piece was welded on first then another piece butted up and then welded up so there is effectively a weld point in the centre of the point as well as round the edge.

Well i could have bought in tested and toughened weld on recovery points, but at some point its likely that they may be overloaded for a short time and having them twist  and bend is preferable to have one shatter whilst there is a tensioned cable attached!
 

16. Shackles, 2x 50mm hoop shackles, tested to 3.5T. The bumper will be pained up with some good old Hammerite Satin Black. Figured you can't go wrong with yellow n black  Smiley.
The paint is a rubberised industrial coating for offshore use (scrounged some from a fabricators down on the docks)
 

17. The tow hitch is off and a 350mm adjustable drop plate (landy style) will be fitted when it arrives! I quite often have agri equipment on tow around the fields and could really do with the ring hitch high up at times!
« Last Edit: 18 November, 2015, 03:37:58 AM by MWood » Logged

2005 4Life Black/Silver & badly fitted Avenger hard top.
Corsa 838MT - 265/75/16s
Milner heavy load springs - 24"
Torsion bars wound up - 21" (was 22.5" but have now settled)
30mm wheel spacers
New Turbo (unbranded OEM)
Steering stops wound out
EGR removed
AVM Hubs
LED Headlight conversion (supplied by Bootsie)
32" LED Light bar (supplied by Bootsie - link to follow)
Cybox full stainless system + De-cat pipe
DIY Rear bumper
Replacement oil cooler lines (330bar hydraulic hose)

Lots of replaced OEM parts too!
Cost: Lots!
douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #1 on: 18 November, 2015, 04:32:43 AM »

as one maker of extremely over the top tow bar's to another, good work, mig welds?

why didnt you make the drop plate removable for offroading?
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03 4work, Cummins 6BTA 5.9L engine, 40" round things, and all the accompanying hassle involved.
 
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley
024life
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MWood
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« Reply #2 on: 18 November, 2015, 05:24:04 AM »

No, i could never get on with a mig welder, its a big arc/tig inverter thats all arc welding!
I still need a crash course in tig welding though lol!

Im waiting on delivery for this... Drop Plate
I could put the drop plate on with the hitch on the big plate, but wouldn't that make it weaker?
« Last Edit: 18 November, 2015, 13:32:33 PM by MWood » Logged

2005 4Life Black/Silver & badly fitted Avenger hard top.
Corsa 838MT - 265/75/16s
Milner heavy load springs - 24"
Torsion bars wound up - 21" (was 22.5" but have now settled)
30mm wheel spacers
New Turbo (unbranded OEM)
Steering stops wound out
EGR removed
AVM Hubs
LED Headlight conversion (supplied by Bootsie)
32" LED Light bar (supplied by Bootsie - link to follow)
Cybox full stainless system + De-cat pipe
DIY Rear bumper
Replacement oil cooler lines (330bar hydraulic hose)

Lots of replaced OEM parts too!
Cost: Lots!
MWood
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Posts: 134


« Reply #3 on: 18 November, 2015, 13:36:35 PM »

I acquired an older 3500kg super winch a short time ago...
At some point I need to make a front winch mount or bumper not sure which though!

The steel cable is a bit chatty on the winch, can it be swapped for synthetic rope? Or does it need a whole new drum?
Logged

2005 4Life Black/Silver & badly fitted Avenger hard top.
Corsa 838MT - 265/75/16s
Milner heavy load springs - 24"
Torsion bars wound up - 21" (was 22.5" but have now settled)
30mm wheel spacers
New Turbo (unbranded OEM)
Steering stops wound out
EGR removed
AVM Hubs
LED Headlight conversion (supplied by Bootsie)
32" LED Light bar (supplied by Bootsie - link to follow)
Cybox full stainless system + De-cat pipe
DIY Rear bumper
Replacement oil cooler lines (330bar hydraulic hose)

Lots of replaced OEM parts too!
Cost: Lots!
123hotchef
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Posts: 3266


« Reply #4 on: 18 November, 2015, 14:22:11 PM »

you can swap the old cable for synthetic rope no bother mate just get a alloy fairlead to go with the rope as rollers are a no no for rope.  I look forward to looking at the pics to go with the how too great write up by the way MWOOD
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #5 on: 18 November, 2015, 19:55:50 PM »

No, i could never get on with a mig welder, its a big arc/tig inverter thats all arc welding!
I still need a crash course in tig welding though lol!

Im waiting on delivery for this... Drop Plate
I could put the drop plate on with the hitch on the big plate, but wouldn't that make it weaker?

its much cheaper to make your own drop plate

this is mine, its all 12mm plate, in a "channel" shape, held with 2 1" linkage pins



offroad all thats left are the pieces it bolts onto. also 12MM.

to be honest, you'd be surprised how little you need to tow, our 4Work had a tow bar from thee previous owner which is just made of angle iron, with a flat drop plate, (like yours but with out the landrover struts at the bottom) cant be more than 6mm thick and that truck as worked like a dog the last 6 years. tow bar has never been an issue

after all your chassis is only 60x40x3 and thats meant to be the strongest bit..

arc welds Smiley the only working welder I have is a 200 amp petrol 2stroke built 30 years ago, so arc it is, those recovery point welds look very nice why I thought you were migging hhaha
Logged

03 4work, Cummins 6BTA 5.9L engine, 40" round things, and all the accompanying hassle involved.
 
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley
024life
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MWood
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« Reply #6 on: 18 November, 2015, 22:01:13 PM »

I know there is an old saying 'a poor craftsman blames his tools' But the state of my welds have improved 10 fold since I got rid of my old 70amp buzz box and got a new 200amp arc/tig inverter earlier this year!

Now all but the most awkwark to get at welding will pass for a half decent professional welders instead of a 3 year olds!
Logged

2005 4Life Black/Silver & badly fitted Avenger hard top.
Corsa 838MT - 265/75/16s
Milner heavy load springs - 24"
Torsion bars wound up - 21" (was 22.5" but have now settled)
30mm wheel spacers
New Turbo (unbranded OEM)
Steering stops wound out
EGR removed
AVM Hubs
LED Headlight conversion (supplied by Bootsie)
32" LED Light bar (supplied by Bootsie - link to follow)
Cybox full stainless system + De-cat pipe
DIY Rear bumper
Replacement oil cooler lines (330bar hydraulic hose)

Lots of replaced OEM parts too!
Cost: Lots!
douchecalamondaes
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Gender: Male
Posts: 4481

hertfordshire


« Reply #7 on: 18 November, 2015, 22:48:12 PM »

I know there is an old saying 'a poor craftsman blames his tools' But the state of my welds have improved 10 fold since I got rid of my old 70amp buzz box and got a new 200amp arc/tig inverter earlier this year!

Now all but the most awkwark to get at welding will pass for a half decent professional welders instead of a 3 year olds!

I had the same experience when I stopped using the electric buzz box, always used to trip the mains and made horrid welds, 200 amps, is perfect
Logged

03 4work, Cummins 6BTA 5.9L engine, 40" round things, and all the accompanying hassle involved.
 
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley
024life
04warrior
04 4work
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« Reply #8 on: 18 November, 2015, 23:33:58 PM »

My old 80A buzz box still produces good welds  Cool Tongue
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« Reply #9 on: 19 November, 2015, 03:35:11 AM »

so does my 80 amp lidl buzz box overheats quick too even with the fan i wired up to it

i must try the mig again too
Logged

2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #10 on: 19 November, 2015, 03:41:59 AM »

I know a guy with an aldi one and swears by it, cant stand mine be better off hooking up a load of car batteries
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03 4work, Cummins 6BTA 5.9L engine, 40" round things, and all the accompanying hassle involved.
 
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley
024life
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04 4work
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« Reply #11 on: 19 November, 2015, 03:48:04 AM »

Must admit, I do prefer the Mig for most things.  But there comes a time, sometimes, when a rod just needs to be burried in there.
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« Reply #12 on: 19 November, 2015, 03:52:55 AM »

i have only used my mig with the gasless rubbish wire it came with i now have a pub co2 bottle and real wire but as i get good welds with the buzz box i aint bothered sorting the mig out and i do love playing with hot metal with a rod in my hand it feels more real
Logged

2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
nickburt
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Where will the Pheonix take us next?


« Reply #13 on: 19 November, 2015, 04:14:07 AM »

i have only used my mig with the gasless rubbish wire it came with i now have a pub co2 bottle and real wire but as i get good welds with the buzz box i aint bothered sorting the mig out and i do love playing with hot metal with a rod in my hand it feels more real

Never did get on with gasless - just goes against the whole thing about welding and the need for a sheild.
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« Reply #14 on: 19 November, 2015, 04:15:14 AM »

gas is in the wire init!  like the sticks its around the metal
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
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« Reply #15 on: 19 November, 2015, 04:18:18 AM »

Built my own rear bumper/ recovery pio ts way back last year (i think)
rear bumper
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''Engineering is about finding answers to problems that don't create further problems''
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« Reply #16 on: 19 November, 2015, 04:29:07 AM »

Built my own rear bumper/ recovery pio ts way back last year (i think)
rear bumper

just like to say, how did you do the swing away hitch, looking at one for chef's swing away im making, nothing good on the market
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03 4work, Cummins 6BTA 5.9L engine, 40" round things, and all the accompanying hassle involved.
 
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley
024life
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nickburt
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« Reply #17 on: 19 November, 2015, 04:30:58 AM »

gas is in the wire init!  like the sticks its around the metal

Therein lies the problem.

Let's create a gas shield around the outside of the weld pool by using a flux inside the wire we're striking an arc with.
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« Reply #18 on: 19 November, 2015, 13:01:22 PM »

true nick I get ya

and John I thought we were going to use a trailer hub and shaft
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
MWood
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« Reply #19 on: 19 November, 2015, 13:12:43 PM »

Built my own rear bumper/ recovery pio ts way back last year (i think)
rear bumper

I remember that, looked tidy dude!
 I especially liked the jerry can carrier you fitted!
Logged

2005 4Life Black/Silver & badly fitted Avenger hard top.
Corsa 838MT - 265/75/16s
Milner heavy load springs - 24"
Torsion bars wound up - 21" (was 22.5" but have now settled)
30mm wheel spacers
New Turbo (unbranded OEM)
Steering stops wound out
EGR removed
AVM Hubs
LED Headlight conversion (supplied by Bootsie)
32" LED Light bar (supplied by Bootsie - link to follow)
Cybox full stainless system + De-cat pipe
DIY Rear bumper
Replacement oil cooler lines (330bar hydraulic hose)

Lots of replaced OEM parts too!
Cost: Lots!
douchecalamondaes
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**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 4481

hertfordshire


« Reply #20 on: 19 November, 2015, 20:02:07 PM »

true nick I get ya

and John I thought we were going to use a trailer hub and shaft

YOUR hub and shaft!, yes but if he has a simpler solution might be worth listening to him, he's the engineer after all
Logged

03 4work, Cummins 6BTA 5.9L engine, 40" round things, and all the accompanying hassle involved.
 
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley
024life
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04 4work
123hotchef
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« Reply #21 on: 19 November, 2015, 22:45:13 PM »

I am all open for suggestions
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
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« Reply #22 on: 19 November, 2015, 23:23:41 PM »

true nick I get ya

and John I thought we were going to use a trailer hub and shaft
what was this being used for !!!!
my tow ball just unbolts
my swing out jerry can holder is custom made and can be removed totaly when not needed
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''Engineering is about finding answers to problems that don't create further problems''
----Genius is 1% inspiration, 99% perspiration---
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« Reply #23 on: 20 November, 2015, 01:25:28 AM »

swing out spare carrier mark,  I can see by ur pic it dont look u have a bearing or anything on yours for that weight u dont really need it but for a longer arm and the weight of a 33 or 35 on the arm at full reach I think a bearing is needed
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
douchecalamondaes
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hertfordshire


« Reply #24 on: 20 November, 2015, 06:24:16 AM »

true nick I get ya

and John I thought we were going to use a trailer hub and shaft
what was this being used for !!!!
my tow ball just unbolts
my swing out jerry can holder is custom made and can be removed totaly when not needed


chef wants a swing away and was wondering what to use for the hinge, as hinges for the job are only sold in america, but some people say you can use the stub axle and hub from a trailer as the hinge.
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03 4work, Cummins 6BTA 5.9L engine, 40" round things, and all the accompanying hassle involved.
 
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley
024life
04warrior
04 4work
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