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Author Topic: Hi all looking for a little info on my 2003 l200 that's not running well at all  (Read 7897 times)
Gfish

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« on: 07 December, 2015, 20:55:46 PM »

It starts ok but seems like it's missing a bit and shakes on tick over then when reved it seems to hold back and splutter and pump out black suty smoke. It's been with my local mechanic for nearly 4weeks now and I'm sure he doesn't know what it is. He's checked turbo which seems ok he says along with pipes, timing checked all ok, bit unsure on fuel pump as to weather it's ok, kinda hoping it's not, Cry . actuator maybe ?? It's been on a diagnostic machine and all that's coming off that is boost pressure but turbo seems fine. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance
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123hotchef
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« Reply #1 on: 07 December, 2015, 20:58:52 PM »

what are the actual fault codes mate?

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Gfish

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« Reply #2 on: 07 December, 2015, 21:11:43 PM »

Hi, he never gave me the actual codes he just said it was a boost pressure fault, I will try tomorrow to get the actual numbers and post them tomorrow, thanks for reply
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123hotchef
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« Reply #3 on: 07 December, 2015, 21:19:29 PM »

no worries post the actuall codes up when you get them mate and I will consult the trouble shooting manuale for ya
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

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Gfish

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« Reply #4 on: 07 December, 2015, 21:44:51 PM »

Will do and thanks again, tempted to spares or repair it as the cost is getting out of hand and no fix in sight 😁
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douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #5 on: 07 December, 2015, 22:31:29 PM »

it will be something one of us knows about , check the turbo actuator, make sure its not notchy, pump timing might be bad, get a cheap boost gauge and plumb that in..
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02 4life red/silver, T-bar's,  3" bodylift,  31" MT's,  LED headlights, under bonnet & interior light mods,   K&N,   Fuel timing advance,  Reduced boost,   free wheeling hubs, triple Air horns, "cruise control",  DECAT, custom towbar, under sealed, EGR, stiff fan, boost & water gauges, CB, lockbox
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley

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Gfish

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« Reply #6 on: 08 December, 2015, 13:01:23 PM »

Hi the codes are 12 and 46 thanks in advance
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Gfish

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« Reply #7 on: 08 December, 2015, 14:02:40 PM »

He's checked the pump timing and says it's ok and the actuator isn't notchy, he's also going to put a boost gauge on it to check it, he says it revs up a bit then drops spluttering whilst smoking a lot. Any help would be great, thanks
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douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #8 on: 08 December, 2015, 14:02:59 PM »

Hi the codes are 12 and 46 thanks in advance

46.... thats bad...

new fuel  pump or ECU right there..

does the rev counter work,

does the voltage go above 14 ever?

code 12,, check pping to boost sensor on back of intercooler,
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02 4life red/silver, T-bar's,  3" bodylift,  31" MT's,  LED headlights, under bonnet & interior light mods,   K&N,   Fuel timing advance,  Reduced boost,   free wheeling hubs, triple Air horns, "cruise control",  DECAT, custom towbar, under sealed, EGR, stiff fan, boost & water gauges, CB, lockbox
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nickburt
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« Reply #9 on: 08 December, 2015, 15:10:05 PM »

As above,

12: Boost pressure system system.   Will be a loose or split hose to the boost sensor, dirt in the pipe, or the sensor itself.
46: Injection correction ROM system.  Is probably a corrupt ECU, or faulty pump ROM.  BUT ...... could also be that the fuel pump timing is out far enough for the ECU not to be able to alter the pump injection timing sufficiently.
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Gfish

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« Reply #10 on: 08 December, 2015, 17:33:43 PM »

Thanks for the comments will ask him to have a look at the above Cry if it was the ecu would it not display a light on the dash as there seems to be no warning light? Also can a second hand one of both ecu and fuel pump just be fitted straight on? Thanks guys
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douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #11 on: 08 December, 2015, 17:47:15 PM »

Thanks for the comments will ask him to have a look at the above Cry if it was the ecu would it not display a light on the dash as there seems to be no warning light? Also can a second hand one of both ecu and fuel pump just be fitted straight on? Thanks guys

fuel pump yes, ecu, not so sure

there should be an orange check engine light on the dash. should come on with ignition
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02 4life red/silver, T-bar's,  3" bodylift,  31" MT's,  LED headlights, under bonnet & interior light mods,   K&N,   Fuel timing advance,  Reduced boost,   free wheeling hubs, triple Air horns, "cruise control",  DECAT, custom towbar, under sealed, EGR, stiff fan, boost & water gauges, CB, lockbox
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley

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04 warrior (least reliable L200 ever)
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« Reply #12 on: 08 December, 2015, 17:58:30 PM »

Thanks for the comments will ask him to have a look at the above Cry if it was the ecu would it not display a light on the dash as there seems to be no warning light? Also can a second hand one of both ecu and fuel pump just be fitted straight on? Thanks guys

The EML should come on if there's a fault code being recorded.
Fuel pump can be swaped independant of anything else.
Engine ECU can be changed, but you also need immobiliser ECU, ignition key and ignition switch ring, they are all coded together.

I would do the following.

Check timing - (without wishing to teach anyone to suck eggs, this must be done properly by getting both top and bottom timing covers off and checking marks on pulley against markers on front casing - do not use any of the marks on the outside of the timing covers).
Try a different fuel pump - maybe someone close to you who has a spare pump to try.
Then, as a last resort, swap ECU etc... again, maybe someone close who can lend you a set to try.
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Gfish

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« Reply #13 on: 08 December, 2015, 18:06:58 PM »

Ok thanks, this is not looking to good then, will have to get him check it Tomoz but I'm sure once running all lights go out on dash ? Also don't know if this has any relevance or not but I had the the bottom pully bolt to the crank come out and it chewed up the pully and fan belts not cam belt tho that was ok, put a new key way in and pully and bolt and it was fine for 2 days then suddenly went down with the problem I have now, it was stripped down again and  noticed it had chewed up the metal plate that runs through the crank sensor so replaced that thinking that was the running issue, checked timing and it was ok but to no joy and here I am now
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Gfish

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« Reply #14 on: 08 December, 2015, 18:11:45 PM »

All covers where removed and all the markers lined up, I'm thinking poss eBay as don't know anyone to get anything like this off
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« Reply #15 on: 08 December, 2015, 18:32:26 PM »

Ok thanks, this is not looking to good then, will have to get him check it Tomoz but I'm sure once running all lights go out on dash ?
If that's the case, then it's not recording any faults.  Any codes that are being picked up are old ones that haven't been cleared.
What code reader was used?  The L200 is not OBD compliant, so a normal OBD reader will either not read anything, or will read incorrectly.

Also don't know if this has any relevance or not but I had the the bottom pully bolt to the crank come out and it chewed up the pully and fan belts not cam belt tho that was ok, put a new key way in and pully and bolt and it was fine for 2 days then suddenly went down with the problem I have now, it was stripped down again and  noticed it had chewed up the metal plate that runs through the crank sensor so replaced that thinking that was the running issue, checked timing and it was ok but to no joy and here I am now

Was the crank angle sensor checked.  If the metal plate was damaged, chances are it got damaged by hitting the sensor.  If the sensor is damged, that would explain the problems you're having.  But it won't throw up a fault code.
When the new key was fitted, did it fit in the keyway in the crank snugly.  Any loosness and you'll be having timing problems, as it'll be letting the pulleys move on the crank.
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« Reply #16 on: 08 December, 2015, 18:33:36 PM »

Ok thanks, this is not looking to good then, will have to get him check it Tomoz but I'm sure once running all lights go out on dash ? Also don't know if this has any relevance or not but I had the the bottom pully bolt to the crank come out and it chewed up the pully and fan belts not cam belt tho that was ok, put a new key way in and pully and bolt and it was fine for 2 days then suddenly went down with the problem I have now, it was stripped down again and  noticed it had chewed up the metal plate that runs through the crank sensor so replaced that thinking that was the running issue, checked timing and it was ok but to no joy and here I am now

This sort of info would have helped a lot more from the beginning..........  Lips sealed
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Gfish

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« Reply #17 on: 08 December, 2015, 19:16:16 PM »

Not sure what reader it was tbh will find out, the metal disk behind the pully had only chewed on the key way as it came loose the fan type blades had no damage to them and the sensor looked OK and lined back up. Sorry about missing info thought with it running for 2 days after pulley had been replaced not knowing the plate had been chewed up tho it was a different problem. Is that what you think it is then? Thanks
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Gfish

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« Reply #18 on: 08 December, 2015, 19:19:26 PM »

Is there any one I could talk too would be easier explain I  think ? Thanks
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« Reply #19 on: 08 December, 2015, 19:21:34 PM »

Not sure what reader it was tbh will find out, the metal disk behind the pully had only chewed on the key way as it came loose the fan type blades had no damage to them and the sensor looked OK and lined back up. Sorry about missing info thought with it running for 2 days after pulley had been replaced not knowing the plate had been chewed up tho it was a different problem. Is that what you think it is then? Thanks

If the crank bolt came loose and the crank angle sensor plate came loose, did the pulleys also come loose and damage their keyways, allowing them to move on the crank?
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douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #20 on: 08 December, 2015, 19:22:49 PM »

could be the new crank blade was fitted wrong way round?
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02 4life red/silver, T-bar's,  3" bodylift,  31" MT's,  LED headlights, under bonnet & interior light mods,   K&N,   Fuel timing advance,  Reduced boost,   free wheeling hubs, triple Air horns, "cruise control",  DECAT, custom towbar, under sealed, EGR, stiff fan, boost & water gauges, CB, lockbox
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley

04 4work club cab (most reliable L200 ever)
04 warrior (least reliable L200 ever)
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« Reply #21 on: 08 December, 2015, 19:26:16 PM »

could be the new crank blade was fitted wrong way round?

Could be.
Also seen the crank pulley put on the wrong way round, but then it won't run - valves and pistons lock up !!!!
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Gfish

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« Reply #22 on: 08 December, 2015, 19:36:38 PM »

The other key ways seemed fine and the new plate was the right way round as it runs through the small gap of the sensor, the engine never James up at all when it came off
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123hotchef
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« Reply #23 on: 08 December, 2015, 20:17:34 PM »

i have the dreaded code 46 and my revcounter dont work but truck still runs great with the vac pipe removed from throttle body and plugged up so it dont go into limp mode
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #24 on: 08 December, 2015, 20:25:18 PM »

check your ecu for burn marks chef..
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02 4life red/silver, T-bar's,  3" bodylift,  31" MT's,  LED headlights, under bonnet & interior light mods,   K&N,   Fuel timing advance,  Reduced boost,   free wheeling hubs, triple Air horns, "cruise control",  DECAT, custom towbar, under sealed, EGR, stiff fan, boost & water gauges, CB, lockbox
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley

04 4work club cab (most reliable L200 ever)
04 warrior (least reliable L200 ever)
Gfish

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« Reply #25 on: 08 December, 2015, 20:48:14 PM »

That's something I'll have check cheff not sure if rev counter works or not, what's limp mode mean? Did yours have same issue as mine by any chance ? Thanks
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Gfish

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« Reply #26 on: 08 December, 2015, 20:55:13 PM »

Can anyone also recomend a used spare parts dealer ? as I think I might need one
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« Reply #27 on: 08 December, 2015, 21:00:50 PM »

Can anyone also recomend a used spare parts dealer ? as I think I might need one

Shoppng list ??
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« Reply #28 on: 08 December, 2015, 21:01:17 PM »

my ecu did have burn marks but I had I repaired,  limp mode is when the eml light comes on and it puts the truck into safe mode closing the throttle body butterfly
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

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Stainless steel exhaust
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« Reply #29 on: 08 December, 2015, 21:02:40 PM »

my ecu did have burn marks but I had I repaired,  limp mode is when the eml light comes on and it puts the truck into safe mode closing the throttle body butterfly

Remove the thottle body butterfly completely ....... problem solved and a more responsive engine.
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« Reply #30 on: 08 December, 2015, 21:09:12 PM »

i just pulled the vac hose of Nick and plugged it so its always open quicker than removing it and if i even get engine run away i can shove the hose back on quick to shut it down
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
Gfish

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« Reply #31 on: 08 December, 2015, 21:10:22 PM »

Seems like I need one  Nick burt Sad cheers for that chef
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nickburt
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« Reply #32 on: 08 December, 2015, 21:13:01 PM »

i just pulled the vac hose of Nick and plugged it so its always open quicker than removing it and if i even get engine run away i can shove the hose back on quick to shut it down

Sure it stays fully open all the time?? 
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« Reply #33 on: 08 December, 2015, 21:13:57 PM »

Seems like I need one  Nick burt Sad cheers for that chef

Get the basics checked again, before spending out on parts you may not need.
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« Reply #34 on: 08 December, 2015, 21:14:56 PM »

no i guess it could get sucked shut, who knows
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
123hotchef
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« Reply #35 on: 08 December, 2015, 21:15:52 PM »

Take the vac line of the throttle body plug it and see if it runs better
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
nickburt
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« Reply #36 on: 08 December, 2015, 21:16:24 PM »

no i guess it could get sucked shut, who knows


Hence, remove the butterfly.  Cool Grin
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« Reply #37 on: 08 December, 2015, 21:19:02 PM »

job for the weekend then  thanks learnt something this week too ur a wealth of knowledge mr nickburt,  anything to look out for or needed when removing the buterfly

sorry to hijack ur thread Gfish but this will probably benifit u too
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #38 on: 08 December, 2015, 21:22:43 PM »

butterfly has a strong return spring it will stay open
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02 4life red/silver, T-bar's,  3" bodylift,  31" MT's,  LED headlights, under bonnet & interior light mods,   K&N,   Fuel timing advance,  Reduced boost,   free wheeling hubs, triple Air horns, "cruise control",  DECAT, custom towbar, under sealed, EGR, stiff fan, boost & water gauges, CB, lockbox
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley

04 4work club cab (most reliable L200 ever)
04 warrior (least reliable L200 ever)
123hotchef
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« Reply #39 on: 08 December, 2015, 21:23:30 PM »

maybe it will maybe it wont
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

To go on
Stainless steel exhaust
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