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Author Topic: Flashing diff lock light  (Read 276 times)
gazmoore
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« on: 19 June, 2018, 13:08:31 PM »

Hi all, just thought i'd activate the rear diff lock to make sure it is ok having not used it for ages. Went into 4l ok, solid green light, but light on diff lock switch kept flashing even after driving forwards and backwards for several yardss, no not on tarmac and yes in a straight line. What do you all reckon? Vacuum fault? Sticky actuator? Haven't had chance to get underneath and have look.  Thanks
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123hotchef
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« Reply #1 on: 25 June, 2018, 18:29:45 PM »

broken pip on compressor it goes solid when engauged
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rodeast24
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« Reply #2 on: 29 June, 2018, 09:02:09 AM »

Can you enlighten me on the pip, What is this
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123hotchef
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« Reply #3 on: 29 June, 2018, 16:39:03 PM »

Can you enlighten me on the pip, What is this

doh!  pipe mate pipe
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2005 4 Life
Blue over Silver Double Cab
K&N Apollo EGR removed S/S De-Cat Armadillo Roller Shutter Boost gauge Wax-oiled and under-sealed Interior blue LED's Roll bars
2 Led spots 2 search lights 4 work lights with red angle eyes 7" screen for trailer cams Stereo with flip down screen

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rodeast24
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« Reply #4 on: 30 June, 2018, 09:14:13 AM »

Ahh I see, all becomes clear, Cheers LOL
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Warrior 2004 Silver
Fullbox, decat, egr blanked, powerchip, Mac wheels 285/60/18 coopers.Sport grill, twin headlights. 124K, New engine at 102K.
Landrover 90 and discovery td5, also 1958 series 2.. I do love my landys,
Volvo 850R, nissan 300zx twin turbo, Been ordered by a higher athority no more toys.
gazmoore
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« Reply #5 on: 06 July, 2018, 17:13:55 PM »

Just had look underneath, all looks ok from the outside no broken pipes or wires etc. Pulled rubber  pipe off diff end an compressor seemed to be producing low pressure air, which I believe is correct when in 4wd low and diff lock switched on. Connected a tube to the metal pipe on the diff and blew down it, could feel resistance and I think I could hear a click but not sure as it is quite noisy here. When I was blowing down the tube and hopefully activating the locking mechanism  the diff lock light was still flashing. So it looks as if compressor is ok and maybe the switch? Will test the switch h wiring at the connection when my new test lead arrive. Presumably I should see a change when I blow down the pipe to activate the switch mechanism. Thanks
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Heathen
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« Reply #6 on: 06 July, 2018, 23:22:52 PM »

Compressor sounds to be pumping ok - if you block the outlet with your thumb, it should cut out quite quickly as it has a pressure switch in it - as you say it is only very low pressure needed to activate the lock. I'd jack the back wheels up to see if the mechanism is working - if it's ok, then turning one wheel by hand should result in the other one turning in the same direction (dodgy switch/electrics). If it's not working, they'll turn in opposite directions - broken mechanism. There's a tiny cruddy pipe inside the diff that takes the pressure from the inlet union to the actuator - I had a tiny pin hole in mine - enough to stop it working.
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douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #7 on: 07 July, 2018, 01:11:50 AM »

have you tested it, engadged difflock then driven up an axle twister and see if its locking?

simplest way.. if not jack up the back, turn difflock on, then rotate one wheel, if the other one goes same way its locked, if it dont its unlocked.

usually the confirmation switch will fail but the locker dont break
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gazmoore
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« Reply #8 on: 07 July, 2018, 13:57:17 PM »

Thanks all. I have tried driving it, but can't decide if it feels different or not when "engaged". I will try jacking the back end up as suggested. If it is found to be working, what is it that is keeping the light flashing rather than going solid? Thanks?
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gazmoore
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« Reply #9 on: 12 July, 2018, 15:36:28 PM »

Hi all, diff lock definately not working. Jacked the back end up and engaged 4low switched diff lock on an rear wheels moved a little in opposing directions when I turned one by hand. Little compressor seems to be working ok, i disconnected the connector  from what I assume is the diff lock light switch and tested the resistance of the  switch when I blew down the tube to the actuator. The was no difference , it was open circuit all the time. Testing the other side of the wiring out of interest, i measured 2.6v dc with the dash switch both on and off, no difference. I did find t diff was a bit low on oil, topped up with about 200mls. Any ideas where the problem lies? Thanks Gaz
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Heathen
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« Reply #10 on: 13 July, 2018, 02:18:27 AM »

Hey gaz.

Unless you've been driving it like a spanner with the diff-lock engaged, it's unlikely you've broken metal bits in the diff. As the compressor is working, it's probably down to an air leak somewhere that's sapping the pressure to the actuator. It could be a rusty connection at the banjo connector outside the diff, but more likely to be either the cruddy pipe inside (I mentioned before), or a leak in the actuator diaphragm. If it's the diaphragm, they're not available new (sfaik) and would also be pretty technical to change, as you have to pull off one of the inner bearing races from the diff - easiest option then is probably a new diff (most people opt for a whole new axle). If you're lucky it's just the pipe, and is an easy fix, but you still have to be happy to remove/reinstall the rear diff. Here's some photo's of an axle I got to transfer a diff out of - shows the pipe in question pretty clearly - also has a vid of what's supposed to happen when the diff lock engages.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RnpkCAWdjh7WcBl93

You don't have to remove the axle from the truck to do the job btw...

If you end up changing the diff, be aware that there are two different diff ratios - single cab, club cab and 4-work models have a 4.366, and sexier models have 4.875 - the one you have is stamped on the plate on the nearside front top crossmember along from the bonnet catch.

Vid of dodgy actuator:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K07naD2Txe0

Make sure the pressure cut off in the pump is working, before you put it all back together - as I said before, a thumb over the end of the pipe should easily make the pump cut out, otherwise the pressure in the actuator system will build up to a point where something breaks inside the diff again. 

Hope this helps and good luck. H

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gazmoore
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« Reply #11 on: 13 July, 2018, 10:35:55 AM »

Hi, thanks for the reply. I don't think there is an air leak, as when i disconnect the compressor and connect a rubber tube to the pipe on the diff and blow down it, i can feel fairly "solid" resistance which doesn't seem to dissipate as it would if there was a leak. When i suck on the tube the vacuum seems to remain. I assume the switch only acts as an indicator to show that the diff lock has been engaged , is it just a simple make or break switch that illuminates the light in the dash switch? Seems like the mechanism is not working and therefore not activating the switch. Any other way to check the mechanism? Thanks Gaz
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douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #12 on: Yesterday at 20:10:32 »

Hi, thanks for the reply. I don't think there is an air leak, as when i disconnect the compressor and connect a rubber tube to the pipe on the diff and blow down it, i can feel fairly "solid" resistance which doesn't seem to dissipate as it would if there was a leak. When i suck on the tube the vacuum seems to remain. I assume the switch only acts as an indicator to show that the diff lock has been engaged , is it just a simple make or break switch that illuminates the light in the dash switch? Seems like the mechanism is not working and therefore not activating the switch. Any other way to check the mechanism? Thanks Gaz

your best bet is it keep on with the vacuum checks, suck on it till you can put your tongue on it and feel it pulling back, leave your tongue there for a while to make sure its not leaking back, if its ok, feel the feed from the compressor, its low pressure but it IS pressure,  if its ok, connect up, jack up, spin the wheels up, (with the engine) for a bit to give it a chance to mesh gears, then put in neutral and do the turn test again, there will be a little diff slack remember a few degrees,


iff its deffo not locking youve gotta take diff out, its not a big job really, PM if you want a step by step to do it..
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