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Author Topic: Flashing diff lock light  (Read 2052 times)
gazmoore
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« on: 19 June, 2018, 13:08:31 PM »

Hi all, just thought i'd activate the rear diff lock to make sure it is ok having not used it for ages. Went into 4l ok, solid green light, but light on diff lock switch kept flashing even after driving forwards and backwards for several yardss, no not on tarmac and yes in a straight line. What do you all reckon? Vacuum fault? Sticky actuator? Haven't had chance to get underneath and have look.  Thanks
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123hotchef
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« Reply #1 on: 25 June, 2018, 18:29:45 PM »

broken pip on compressor it goes solid when engauged
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« Reply #2 on: 29 June, 2018, 09:02:09 AM »

Can you enlighten me on the pip, What is this
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« Reply #3 on: 29 June, 2018, 16:39:03 PM »

Can you enlighten me on the pip, What is this

doh!  pipe mate pipe
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« Reply #4 on: 30 June, 2018, 09:14:13 AM »

Ahh I see, all becomes clear, Cheers LOL
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« Reply #5 on: 06 July, 2018, 17:13:55 PM »

Just had look underneath, all looks ok from the outside no broken pipes or wires etc. Pulled rubber  pipe off diff end an compressor seemed to be producing low pressure air, which I believe is correct when in 4wd low and diff lock switched on. Connected a tube to the metal pipe on the diff and blew down it, could feel resistance and I think I could hear a click but not sure as it is quite noisy here. When I was blowing down the tube and hopefully activating the locking mechanism  the diff lock light was still flashing. So it looks as if compressor is ok and maybe the switch? Will test the switch h wiring at the connection when my new test lead arrive. Presumably I should see a change when I blow down the pipe to activate the switch mechanism. Thanks
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« Reply #6 on: 06 July, 2018, 23:22:52 PM »

Compressor sounds to be pumping ok - if you block the outlet with your thumb, it should cut out quite quickly as it has a pressure switch in it - as you say it is only very low pressure needed to activate the lock. I'd jack the back wheels up to see if the mechanism is working - if it's ok, then turning one wheel by hand should result in the other one turning in the same direction (dodgy switch/electrics). If it's not working, they'll turn in opposite directions - broken mechanism. There's a tiny cruddy pipe inside the diff that takes the pressure from the inlet union to the actuator - I had a tiny pin hole in mine - enough to stop it working.
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douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #7 on: 07 July, 2018, 01:11:50 AM »

have you tested it, engadged difflock then driven up an axle twister and see if its locking?

simplest way.. if not jack up the back, turn difflock on, then rotate one wheel, if the other one goes same way its locked, if it dont its unlocked.

usually the confirmation switch will fail but the locker dont break
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gazmoore
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« Reply #8 on: 07 July, 2018, 13:57:17 PM »

Thanks all. I have tried driving it, but can't decide if it feels different or not when "engaged". I will try jacking the back end up as suggested. If it is found to be working, what is it that is keeping the light flashing rather than going solid? Thanks?
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gazmoore
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« Reply #9 on: 12 July, 2018, 15:36:28 PM »

Hi all, diff lock definately not working. Jacked the back end up and engaged 4low switched diff lock on an rear wheels moved a little in opposing directions when I turned one by hand. Little compressor seems to be working ok, i disconnected the connector  from what I assume is the diff lock light switch and tested the resistance of the  switch when I blew down the tube to the actuator. The was no difference , it was open circuit all the time. Testing the other side of the wiring out of interest, i measured 2.6v dc with the dash switch both on and off, no difference. I did find t diff was a bit low on oil, topped up with about 200mls. Any ideas where the problem lies? Thanks Gaz
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« Reply #10 on: 13 July, 2018, 02:18:27 AM »

Hey gaz.

Unless you've been driving it like a spanner with the diff-lock engaged, it's unlikely you've broken metal bits in the diff. As the compressor is working, it's probably down to an air leak somewhere that's sapping the pressure to the actuator. It could be a rusty connection at the banjo connector outside the diff, but more likely to be either the cruddy pipe inside (I mentioned before), or a leak in the actuator diaphragm. If it's the diaphragm, they're not available new (sfaik) and would also be pretty technical to change, as you have to pull off one of the inner bearing races from the diff - easiest option then is probably a new diff (most people opt for a whole new axle). If you're lucky it's just the pipe, and is an easy fix, but you still have to be happy to remove/reinstall the rear diff. Here's some photo's of an axle I got to transfer a diff out of - shows the pipe in question pretty clearly - also has a vid of what's supposed to happen when the diff lock engages.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RnpkCAWdjh7WcBl93

You don't have to remove the axle from the truck to do the job btw...

If you end up changing the diff, be aware that there are two different diff ratios - single cab, club cab and 4-work models have a 4.366, and sexier models have 4.875 - the one you have is stamped on the plate on the nearside front top crossmember along from the bonnet catch.

Vid of dodgy actuator:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K07naD2Txe0

Make sure the pressure cut off in the pump is working, before you put it all back together - as I said before, a thumb over the end of the pipe should easily make the pump cut out, otherwise the pressure in the actuator system will build up to a point where something breaks inside the diff again. 

Hope this helps and good luck. H

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gazmoore
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« Reply #11 on: 13 July, 2018, 10:35:55 AM »

Hi, thanks for the reply. I don't think there is an air leak, as when i disconnect the compressor and connect a rubber tube to the pipe on the diff and blow down it, i can feel fairly "solid" resistance which doesn't seem to dissipate as it would if there was a leak. When i suck on the tube the vacuum seems to remain. I assume the switch only acts as an indicator to show that the diff lock has been engaged , is it just a simple make or break switch that illuminates the light in the dash switch? Seems like the mechanism is not working and therefore not activating the switch. Any other way to check the mechanism? Thanks Gaz
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« Reply #12 on: 20 July, 2018, 20:10:32 PM »

Hi, thanks for the reply. I don't think there is an air leak, as when i disconnect the compressor and connect a rubber tube to the pipe on the diff and blow down it, i can feel fairly "solid" resistance which doesn't seem to dissipate as it would if there was a leak. When i suck on the tube the vacuum seems to remain. I assume the switch only acts as an indicator to show that the diff lock has been engaged , is it just a simple make or break switch that illuminates the light in the dash switch? Seems like the mechanism is not working and therefore not activating the switch. Any other way to check the mechanism? Thanks Gaz

your best bet is it keep on with the vacuum checks, suck on it till you can put your tongue on it and feel it pulling back, leave your tongue there for a while to make sure its not leaking back, if its ok, feel the feed from the compressor, its low pressure but it IS pressure,  if its ok, connect up, jack up, spin the wheels up, (with the engine) for a bit to give it a chance to mesh gears, then put in neutral and do the turn test again, there will be a little diff slack remember a few degrees,


iff its deffo not locking youve gotta take diff out, its not a big job really, PM if you want a step by step to do it..
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« Reply #13 on: 24 July, 2018, 16:38:13 PM »

Thanks for the latest post. Doesn't seem to be a vacuum leak, sucked on the tube and blocked it with my tongue and it held vac ok for some time. Output from compressor seems ok, it cuts out when end of the tube is blocked. When connected to the pipe on the diff  the compressor runs for a very short time then cuts out, which i imagine is what should happen, and then every 5secs it operates for a quick burst , "brrrt" for a second or less. This is all done with ignition on.but engine not running so you can hear what is going on. I sprayed soapy water on the external pipe to check for leaks but all i could see was a tiny tiny bit of weeping around the banjo connection. I don't know if that is enough to cause the system not to work, but i will remove it and clean it all.up.and try to get a perfect seal and see what happens. Thanks,
Regards  Gaz
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« Reply #14 on: 24 July, 2018, 18:15:01 PM »

If you have a leak in the diff, the tube/diaphragm may fill up with oil and you'll probably not be able to detect a leak by blowing/sucking the tube...
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gazmoore
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« Reply #15 on: 26 July, 2018, 10:53:48 AM »

Cleaned and resealed external connection, 100percent no leaks. Still the same, pump runs briefly then stops and activates for a quick brrt every 5 secs,  (is this normal, can somebody with working diff lock check if theirs does the same?) light still flashing. Can't understand what is wrong.
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« Reply #16 on: 26 July, 2018, 14:46:33 PM »

Just put the external pipe back on, definately no leaks or weeping. Still same, air pump operates with a quick "brrt" every 5 secs.  Anybody listened to their locking diffs to see if this is normal operation? Cheers, Gaz
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« Reply #17 on: 26 July, 2018, 18:30:43 PM »

When you checked the compressor cut-off by blocking the outlet pipe end, did you keep it blocked for some time - long enough for it to do that brief action every five seconds? If you did and it doesn't do that, it must be sensing a small pressure drop when connected to the rest of the system.
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gazmoore
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« Reply #18 on: 27 July, 2018, 09:46:07 AM »

Good point, i'll try that later today. Thanks
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gazmoore
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« Reply #19 on: 28 July, 2018, 19:07:55 PM »

Curioser and curioser! When i disconnect the compressor from the diff and block the rubber  tube by bending it back on itself and holding it tight, it pulses more than when it is connected to the diff! Instead of cutting out and giving a short burst every 5 secs, it gives a very short burst constantly.  I.e brt brt brt brt. Sprayed everything with soapy water and can't see any leaks. Could sone kind member with a working diff lock check if their compressor does the same? I need to know where thr fault is before I start dismantling diffs!! Thanks, Gaz
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« Reply #20 on: 29 July, 2018, 00:02:20 AM »

Right - this would sound like that pulsing is due to a max. pressure relief valve then, rather than the pump cycling in response to a pressure drop. In a system with small pressure and flow requirements like this is, the pump tends to operate when required in a small pressure range, rather than a high loss running cycle to a high maximum. This also saves wear on smaller, less rugged pumps.

You tested that the pump flows air with an open pipe end, so I'm leaning towards the diaphragm/something being stuck in the axle. The pulsing every five seconds when connected up would seem to indicate the pump working OK as it senses maximum pressure. What you really need is the info on the working pressure of the system - then you could measure it and eliminate the pump for sure. You could also carefully with a hand pump, apply this pressure to the diff end and see if it holds. If it does and no locking, something not right in there!
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« Reply #21 on: 31 July, 2018, 20:26:11 PM »

hi, Iím new to forum and i have just purchased a L200 animal, 2005 and my green 4wd light glazed, any ideas, thanks
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« Reply #22 on: 13 August, 2018, 09:02:05 AM »

Hi, thanks for all help and responses, still haven't managed to solve the problem. Anybody with a working system tried listening to what their air pump does, it would be helpful to know. Cheers.
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« Reply #23 on: 13 August, 2018, 20:32:14 PM »

Have you figured out if the difflock is engaging yet? first thing to do is work out if it's the lock mechanics failing, or the detection switch. If you block the end of the compressor tube with a thumb, it should cut out and stay cut out till you move the thumb. It only operates at about 4psi.
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« Reply #24 on: 17 August, 2018, 18:16:07 PM »

if you can feel it giving pressure from the pump, again, only low pressure, then you will have a mechanical problem and its a diff out job, not too bad of a job, I have had it once where all works as should and it was a mechanical problem in the diff,
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« Reply #25 on: 20 August, 2018, 09:09:35 AM »

Had another look yesterday. Connected pump to a pressure guage and it was giving 4.5 psi, so lloks like that's ok. Then connected the diff to my foot pump and carefully pumped it to approx 5 psi. It held pressure but light still fleshing. Drove car back an forth a couple of feet with foot pump still connected to see if lock would engage and light would come on. No, still flashing and pressurexstill held.Diff out? Sounds like a big job.What could be wrong in there? 
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« Reply #26 on: 22 August, 2018, 23:10:36 PM »

Had another look yesterday. Connected pump to a pressure guage and it was giving 4.5 psi, so lloks like that's ok. Then connected the diff to my foot pump and carefully pumped it to approx 5 psi. It held pressure but light still fleshing. Drove car back an forth a couple of feet with foot pump still connected to see if lock would engage and light would come on. No, still flashing and pressurexstill held.Diff out? Sounds like a big job.What could be wrong in there? 

jack the back up, turn one wheel while compressor is going, the other wheel should start going forwards when it locks up, dont be afraid to use 10PSI or more they can handle it for testing purposes,

you will be able to very easily see if the diff is working with back in the air,

ignore the flashy light those things are full of pooe anyway
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« Reply #27 on: 22 August, 2018, 23:14:48 PM »

diff out :

prop off, 2 pipes off,

undo brake lines from back of rear brakes, undo hand brake clip on the leaf spring (12mm socket)

undo 3 14mm's where the brakes meet the axle housings on each side,

pull out the halfshafts as far as you can and leave them there,

undo all the diff flange bolts,

hammer and chisel to brake silicone seal of diff, its very stiff

diff out, (these are heavy diffs for a vehicle this size, nearly twice that of a landy or transit so be careful

you will see the difflock teeth through the holes next to the crown wheel, and you can push the diaphram by hand.
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« Reply #28 on: 26 August, 2018, 09:31:33 AM »

Thanks for the info. I'll lift the back end over the hols and have look. Thanks again for the help.
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« Reply #29 on: 31 August, 2018, 11:49:41 AM »

my diff lock light is flashing now when I turn it on too!
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« Reply #30 on: 31 August, 2018, 18:07:41 PM »

my diff lock light is flashing now when I turn it on too!

ignore
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« Reply #31 on: 03 October, 2018, 12:43:52 PM »

Hi all, update on flashing diff lock light. I have finally got round to jacking the back end up again to test the function of the diff lock, and can confirm that it is in fact working. I tried it first by carefully using the foot pump connected to the metal pipe on the diff and pumped to be 10psi whilst turning one back wheel and lock engaged and both wheels turned in same direction. Tried the same by just blowing down the tube attached to the pipe and it worked again. Measured my blowing pressure with a gauge and it was 3psi. The compressor puts out over 5psi, so the diff lock SHOULD work when the system is activated and the compressor comes on. Can't check this with just the rear jacked up as the diff lock will only activate in 4wd, and i haven't got all 4 wheels the off the ground, so cant turn the rear wheels as they are connected then to the front by the 4wd. So i can only assume that the diff lock is actually engaging but the switch that activates the light on the dash is faulty. Thanks for all the input.
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« Reply #32 on: 14 October, 2018, 23:09:30 PM »

Hi all, update on flashing diff lock light. I have finally got round to jacking the back end up again to test the function of the diff lock, and can confirm that it is in fact working. I tried it first by carefully using the foot pump connected to the metal pipe on the diff and pumped to be 10psi whilst turning one back wheel and lock engaged and both wheels turned in same direction. Tried the same by just blowing down the tube attached to the pipe and it worked again. Measured my blowing pressure with a gauge and it was 3psi. The compressor puts out over 5psi, so the diff lock SHOULD work when the system is activated and the compressor comes on. Can't check this with just the rear jacked up as the diff lock will only activate in 4wd, and i haven't got all 4 wheels the off the ground, so cant turn the rear wheels as they are connected then to the front by the 4wd. So i can only assume that the diff lock is actually engaging but the switch that activates the light on the dash is faulty. Thanks for all the input.

yes, you can test it, put it in 4, jack it up at the back, turn one wheel, again, the other wheel will either go the wrong way or it will stop the whole lot from spinning if the locker is working,
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