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Author Topic: Over revving L200  (Read 646 times)
cwood3

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« on: 26 November, 2018, 00:38:27 AM »

All, not sure if anyone can advise best fix or even if anyone has seen this problem before.    I have a 2003 L200, 2.5TD Warrior which has done approx. 135,000 miles and upto a week ago ran OK – started first time etc.
This time on starting up, ran OK and then suddenly started revving very high, without the rev counter registering the high revs.  Truck did switch off with key, and on re-starting did the same, ie very high revs
The AA came out and managed to get an error code from and this is their report.
“…Patrol found the following fault code/s:System : Engine control - 52D / Diesel EDC VRZ 1.021 - Injection pump speed sensor 2. Error Message : Open circuit/short circuit. ENGINE RUNNING AWAY NO SPEED CONTROL MEMBER TO CALL BACK FOR RECOVERY….”
The AA patrol first thought it was the known problem of oil firing the engine, either from sump or turbo, but felt it wasn’t that as it started and switched off on the key.
I had a quote for this speed sensor and it seems to be inside the fuel pump and to get an OEM part fitted, the pump is probably more than the value of the truck! (local garage quote who would only fit new parts)
Since then the truck did start again and this time revved OK, but very roughly, but strangely the PAS didn’t work and all warning lights were on but managed to drive a short distance.  Switched off and when it started up again it went back to revving very high.
I’m planning to get a used fuel pump (and therefore sensor, seen on eBay for about £250, vs over £2,400 (incl VAT) from Mitsubishi) and hopefully get it installed, not sure how many hours that will be or how much that will cost, but am worried this will be the first step of many and end up in a money pit.  Unless anyone has seen this before and this will fix it.  I also understand there’s an immobiliser chip on the fuel pump that needs to moved over and not sure if that’s an easy job or not.
So in summary, is this a known problem, and any thoughts whether a used fuel pump will fix it?
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Freeway
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« Reply #1 on: 26 November, 2018, 16:04:16 PM »

check the crank sensor, the blade and the wiring to it before you go to far
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2004 Animal Red/silver,Stainless roll bar,bull bar,rear step bars,EGR and cooler removed, Black leather,Boost gauge and vacuum gauge fitted,fully chromed door handles in and out and loads more. Now Decat
douchecalamondaes
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« Reply #2 on: 26 November, 2018, 18:29:26 PM »

just swap out for a good used pump which will cost you 250

check a loose battery hasnt destroyed the wiring on the side of the fuel pump aswell

also check crank angle sensor,

there is no coding on the pump just swap the other pump in whole
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03 4work, Cummins 6BTA 5.9L engine, 37" round things, and all the accompanying hassle involved.
 
No, my rear windows dont go up either Smiley
024life
04warrior
04 4work
cwood3

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« Reply #3 on: 27 November, 2018, 00:17:37 AM »

Thanks both, appreciate the really quick replies.  Hadn't  thought of Crank Sensor, is that an easy thing to check?  Battery is quite secure, but that doesn't mean wiring couldn't have got damaged.
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Heathen
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« Reply #4 on: 27 November, 2018, 10:42:37 AM »

There is no immobilizer on the pump - you can swap them with no problem. I have a couple of broken pumps with good speed sensors if you want to try one of those before replacing the whole pump, but the pump swap is probably the easiest option - especially if you're not doing the work yourself. Someone who knows what they're doing could probably do the swap in 2-3 hours.
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02' Single cab (green). 105000 miles
cwood3

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« Reply #5 on: 07 January, 2019, 16:28:11 PM »

Hi all, just wanted to say thanks for the input and thought I'd let you know what the fault was.   It was the crank sensor blade, but that had become damaged as the crank pulley had worn out and was loose and wobbled around causing damage to the blade.   Changed blade (and sensor), and put new crank pulley in, and truck is running again.   Appreciate the advise to look at the blade first.
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Freeway
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« Reply #6 on: 07 January, 2019, 17:35:02 PM »

Glad you got it sorted. I was pretty sure that was gonna be the blade cos i had exactly the same ,only i had to take the engine out and fit a new complete crankshaft and bearings too as the key way on the crank nose had also opened right up, which then damages the blade and throws the timing all over the place.
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2004 Animal Red/silver,Stainless roll bar,bull bar,rear step bars,EGR and cooler removed, Black leather,Boost gauge and vacuum gauge fitted,fully chromed door handles in and out and loads more. Now Decat
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